Tuning a Maximus pair for a cat
#1
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I've been playing with different Maximus props on my 30 Daytona and will stay with a 5 blade, made such a difference at cruise. 1" shorties, about 1.75 above sponson bottom measured with straightedge etc. 1.5 ratio, no tab
I own, stock 30" with 1/2" of diffuser gone
I've borrowed 32" with full diffuser and maybe a little leading edge work
I've borrowed 34" with 1" of diffuser gone and mild labbing
The two borrowed sets were labbed for a 28' Daytona so work done should be with the right mindset for my 30' Daytona
I've run all of them with the plugs removed for ventilation to help loosen the props planing. the 30 works awesome all around/planing but is milder on cruise/top end
The 32 works better, can pull to 5k, slower accel but acceptable but does not plane as well (does not realease as early or as much as the 30- with the mild power (496HO's) I need some help freeing up the props out of the hole.
I've only made a few passes with the 34's, cruise is up and it will pull the top end- better if I had more straights in the lake (was a river that got damed up for hydro power)- these exemplify the props you read about that pull the big numbers but start affecting accel quite a bit..... still, I may run them for the saved RPM etc, I typically get on plane and cruise at 70 to my destination. These props release a bit later than the 32's but they release a lot to the point where I was concerned it would not have enough bite to breakover.
all that said I know the ventilation holes at the leading edges help with freeeing the props up as does trimming the diffuser ring. do they do it at different points or zones? My gut tells me that the ventilation has to do with inital release point and the diffuser has to do with how loose it is once released??
Any expert/experienced advice?
My bud who is lending me props is interested in trading one of his sets for my 30's, I just need to zero in on which set to work with- I don't want to mod his props without trading for them first. My gut tells me the 34's and then put some diffuser ring back on- but I'm not the expert, just a little experienced
I own, stock 30" with 1/2" of diffuser gone
I've borrowed 32" with full diffuser and maybe a little leading edge work
I've borrowed 34" with 1" of diffuser gone and mild labbing
The two borrowed sets were labbed for a 28' Daytona so work done should be with the right mindset for my 30' Daytona
I've run all of them with the plugs removed for ventilation to help loosen the props planing. the 30 works awesome all around/planing but is milder on cruise/top end
The 32 works better, can pull to 5k, slower accel but acceptable but does not plane as well (does not realease as early or as much as the 30- with the mild power (496HO's) I need some help freeing up the props out of the hole.
I've only made a few passes with the 34's, cruise is up and it will pull the top end- better if I had more straights in the lake (was a river that got damed up for hydro power)- these exemplify the props you read about that pull the big numbers but start affecting accel quite a bit..... still, I may run them for the saved RPM etc, I typically get on plane and cruise at 70 to my destination. These props release a bit later than the 32's but they release a lot to the point where I was concerned it would not have enough bite to breakover.
all that said I know the ventilation holes at the leading edges help with freeeing the props up as does trimming the diffuser ring. do they do it at different points or zones? My gut tells me that the ventilation has to do with inital release point and the diffuser has to do with how loose it is once released??
Any expert/experienced advice?
My bud who is lending me props is interested in trading one of his sets for my 30's, I just need to zero in on which set to work with- I don't want to mod his props without trading for them first. My gut tells me the 34's and then put some diffuser ring back on- but I'm not the expert, just a little experienced
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i have worked with the max's on a few hulls. when you say ring, do you mean entire ring to back af blades or just the flared portion. also if you are runing imco lowers you can try removing the stainless cav plate to help break them loose, but still having a long hub after the blades with no flare ring.
i would say take the 32's . thining and adding/ removing 10 - 20 thou in cup will effect your results big time, and you ll be able to dial them in pretty close to if not on , the money,
\
good luck
i would say take the 32's . thining and adding/ removing 10 - 20 thou in cup will effect your results big time, and you ll be able to dial them in pretty close to if not on , the money,
\
good luck
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Thanks for the insite..... the 30's have 1/2" removed from stock, which is most of the flare, the 34's have 1" from stock removed which still leaves barrel after the blades, but no flare- my cavitation plates have never been installed- I only own one, need to find another
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will do during the week, think I have one on the Pantera I can borrow
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oh- and the bite is there, just spinning them due to setup when breaking over, made a huge cruise difference over my Bravo 4 blades, and with the plugs out my 30" maximus spooled way better out of the hole
Last edited by Cattitude; 05-28-2007 at 08:39 AM.
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The more I run the 34's the more I like them, takes a bit of finness as she breaks obver but does it every time and the cruise/top end is there. if i can't cut a good trade deal on these I'll sell my 30's outright and buy some new 34's- I'd consider herring or Hydros but I like the built in ventilaion holes on the maximus
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Have you tried back to back testing with and without the PVS plugs? I don't think the vent holes are affecting you as much as you may think.
Labbing these propellers greatly affects their performance. Also, diameter adjustmets make big differences.
Labbing these propellers greatly affects their performance. Also, diameter adjustmets make big differences.
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Brett Anderson / BBLADES Professional Propellers
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Brett Anderson / BBLADES Professional Propellers
920-295-4435 http://www.bblades.com/
[email protected]
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removing the ring is like removing the cavitation plate.
they blow out easier. the vent plugs usually only help if you have thru hub exhaust. or as i set up some boats, vent the y pipe for the exhaust to the side of the boat instead of pluging them as to break the vacum when coming on plane.
they blow out easier. the vent plugs usually only help if you have thru hub exhaust. or as i set up some boats, vent the y pipe for the exhaust to the side of the boat instead of pluging them as to break the vacum when coming on plane.