Well, it all started as just a new floor and interior.
07-26-2014, 10:29 PM
#11
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Gold MemberThread Starter
Back to work
[ATTACH=CONFIG]526777[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]526778[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]526779[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]526780[/ATTACH]
Well I finally found time to get back into my boat project. Transom turned out to be in the best condition out of all the structure. Everything from a foot up was ok, the bottom was shot though. One thing I didn't expect to find was the transom is two pcs. They glassed in the wood in the bottom section, tabbed it back to the transom of the hull, then used that as a shelf to set the top section on. Then they glassed in the whole assembly in with the mat.
With the demolition complete, now its time to start rebuilding.
Well I finally found time to get back into my boat project. Transom turned out to be in the best condition out of all the structure. Everything from a foot up was ok, the bottom was shot though. One thing I didn't expect to find was the transom is two pcs. They glassed in the wood in the bottom section, tabbed it back to the transom of the hull, then used that as a shelf to set the top section on. Then they glassed in the whole assembly in with the mat.
With the demolition complete, now its time to start rebuilding.
Last edited by spazboz; 07-26-2014 at 10:32 PM.
08-01-2014, 10:05 PM
#13
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All good. I knew the boat had rot when I got it. I was hoping it wouldn't be this far gone, but it turned out to be a little more advanced than I thought.
08-01-2014, 10:16 PM
#14
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Gold MemberThread Starter
progress
I won't have material for my transom until next week, but for now thought I would start fitting the stringers.[ATTACH=CONFIG]527277[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]527278[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]527279[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]527280[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]527281[/ATTACH]
No more big gaps between the stringers and the hull. The worst ones were in the front. Some of the gaps were well over an inch.
No more big gaps between the stringers and the hull. The worst ones were in the front. Some of the gaps were well over an inch.
08-11-2014, 09:02 AM
#18
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Looks good! I like how you even filled in the strakes with your bulkheads. I'm looking at a similar job (fingers crossed it's not as extensive as yours!) on my '88 Elite 222XL.
In preparation, I ran some numbers on using vinylester and 1708 cloth or epoxy and 1700 cloth. Since 1700 doesn't have the CSM mat, it absorbs less resin, and I think you would use about 1/2 as much, assuming you use the same amount of cloth on both jobs. If I have to go as far as you, I'm thinking I'd rather use US Composites "thin" epoxy and 1700 cloth. No fumes, stronger bond, tougher resin, and less weight.
Maybe someone with more experience can comment on the pros/cons of using epoxy over vinylester resin.
In preparation, I ran some numbers on using vinylester and 1708 cloth or epoxy and 1700 cloth. Since 1700 doesn't have the CSM mat, it absorbs less resin, and I think you would use about 1/2 as much, assuming you use the same amount of cloth on both jobs. If I have to go as far as you, I'm thinking I'd rather use US Composites "thin" epoxy and 1700 cloth. No fumes, stronger bond, tougher resin, and less weight.
Maybe someone with more experience can comment on the pros/cons of using epoxy over vinylester resin.
08-12-2014, 04:45 AM
#19
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Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Rotorua New Zealand
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Looks good! I like how you even filled in the strakes with your bulkheads. I'm looking at a similar job (fingers crossed it's not as extensive as yours!) on my '88 Elite 222XL.
In preparation, I ran some numbers on using vinylester and 1708 cloth or epoxy and 1700 cloth. Since 1700 doesn't have the CSM mat, it absorbs less resin, and I think you would use about 1/2 as much, assuming you use the same amount of cloth on both jobs. If I have to go as far as you, I'm thinking I'd rather use US Composites "thin" epoxy and 1700 cloth. No fumes, stronger bond, tougher resin, and less weight.
Maybe someone with more experience can comment on the pros/cons of using epoxy over vinylester resin.
In preparation, I ran some numbers on using vinylester and 1708 cloth or epoxy and 1700 cloth. Since 1700 doesn't have the CSM mat, it absorbs less resin, and I think you would use about 1/2 as much, assuming you use the same amount of cloth on both jobs. If I have to go as far as you, I'm thinking I'd rather use US Composites "thin" epoxy and 1700 cloth. No fumes, stronger bond, tougher resin, and less weight.
Maybe someone with more experience can comment on the pros/cons of using epoxy over vinylester resin.
08-12-2014, 06:24 AM
#20
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As a boat builder I was always taught that when using timber/ply use epoxy as Polyester/Vinylester doesn't stick to wood or to epoxy. However epoxy does stick well to both Polyester and Vinylester. Consequently I would always use epoxy. I am doing a major rebuild on a Nova 230XL and am using West Systems epoxy resins.
