Go Back  Offshoreonly.com > Technical > Restorations & Upgrades
5.3 LS into a Four Winns U17 - Build Thread >

5.3 LS into a Four Winns U17 - Build Thread

Notices

5.3 LS into a Four Winns U17 - Build Thread

Thread Tools
 
Old 03-15-2016, 01:46 PM
  #11  
Registered
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Dayton, OH/Burnside KY
Posts: 273
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by enginerd
Thanks Corey, pictures would be great. Thanks for the link to the summit damper too. I'm assuming you didn't use the keyway?
I actually did use the keyway. My motor is a LS2 that has been stroked to a 408 and the Callies crank shaft I used was keyed.

Here is the bracket I built. Its not the prettiest. But when I finally see that it all works, I'll build a nicer new one.




Here is how I got around using a circulating pump. Moroso makes some adapters that takes the LS water pump openings to a standard BBC. So I used those and ran a Hardin stainless crossover. Moroso also makes a Remote Thermostat housing that I mounted to the back of my seat so I was able to keep all my hoses equal length keeping water pressure equal to both sides of the engine.



Here is a pic of my motor after I dropped it in a week or so ago. Same thing, don't judge my bilge area. I am just getting it running for this season, then next fall the motor will come back out and I'm repainting the bilge and re gel coating the transom because I'm also adding k planes, hydraulic steering and an aluminum swim platform.




If you have ay questions about what it takes to make a marine LS motor, don't hesitate to ask. I have been working on this for over a year now. I am within a week or so of having it all done and water testing. Pretty much just waiting on my new gauges to get here.
corey331 is offline  
Old 03-15-2016, 02:27 PM
  #12  
Were doomed!
Charter Member
 
Wally's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 6,804
Received 1,066 Likes on 536 Posts
Default

Thats awesome!
__________________
-Wally

Money can't buy happiness, but it can buy horsepower. And I've never seen a sad person hauling a$$!
Wally is offline  
Old 03-15-2016, 03:04 PM
  #13  
Registered
 
Knot 4 Me's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Central IL
Posts: 8,384
Received 763 Likes on 412 Posts
Default

Awesome keep the updates coming!
Knot 4 Me is offline  
Old 03-15-2016, 03:47 PM
  #14  
SB
Registered
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: On A Dirt Floor
Posts: 13,661
Received 3,197 Likes on 1,447 Posts
Default

Corey, don't forget to put that stuff in your build thread, so someone following that doesn't miss any of it when referenced. Thanks !
SB is offline  
Old 03-15-2016, 08:03 PM
  #15  
Registered
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by corey331

If you have ay questions about what it takes to make a marine LS motor, don't hesitate to ask.
That is one heck of a build Corey; very clean and well thought out!

I really like your cooling system. I was struggling with what to do with cooling until I stumbled on Hardin's closed cooling system. It has a lot going for it, but your solution looks lighter and cheaper. I need to do more research on crossover systems....I don't know anything about them. I'm really excited to get your feedback once you get a few hours on it.

Where do you plan on mounting your power steering pump? Off the AC pulley? I've been trying to pick what alternator/ps mount to go with. I never thought about just running two belts.

Thanks,
Eric
enginerd is offline  
Old 03-15-2016, 08:52 PM
  #16  
Registered
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Dayton, OH/Burnside KY
Posts: 273
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts
Default

My original plan was to modify the factory AC bracket to mount the PS pump, but I decided to go a totally different route. I'm either going to be an idiot or a genius, lol. I'm trying an Electric/hydraulic PS pump out of a 2001 Toyota MR2. A lot of guys in the electric vehicle world run them so I did a lot of research on it before I went for it. They actually put out the same amount of pressure as any marine pump I can find. They can pull up to 40amps which is why I went with a 200 amp 1 wire marine alternator.


My cooling system was a lot cheaper than the closed cooling, and the fact that my boat will never see salt or brackish water, I didn't see the need to spend the money on the Hardin system. Plus, coming from a engineer/fabricator background, I like the challenge of building and designing my own stuff. Plus, when I'm talking about it (showing it off) at the dock, it makes me feel good to say "I built that" instead of "I bought that". Now I just pray it all works!!! Lol.
corey331 is offline  
Old 03-22-2016, 09:23 PM
  #17  
Registered
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

I removed the factory aluminum stringer mounts tonight with plenty of pb blaster, leverage, and swearing (Red Wings game may have had something to do with that). I need to call around tomorrow to find aluminum to make new ones. I'm replacing all the washers with a backer plate while I'm at it.

I scored an LS truck Power Steering/Alternator mounting bracket (GM PN 12554030). This is the same bracket that VP uses on their V8-380. VP wants $500 for their alternator, thankfully Arco sells one for $220. The bracket mounts a Saginaw type 1 PS pump. I might get lucky and be able to use the old pump...otherwise a new one isn't too much.

The last accessory to figure out is the raw water pump. Here are the options I'm weighing to drive it:

Summit Racing Damper SUM-C2520 (thanks for the suggestion Corey)
PowerBond Damper - PBU1190SS25
(note these are for LS Truck accessory drives)

or...MarinePower makes a neat crank adapter that is sandwiched between the stock damper and crank bolt. This is definitely the cheapest option, but I would have to hunt down the proper length crank bolt. I asked MarineEngineDepot if they had the crank bolt for this part...but haven't gotten a response yet.

MarinePower 512601

I'm leaning towards the PowerBond or Summit Damper at this point.

Hopefully my next update will be a bit more exciting. Stay tuned...

Eric
enginerd is offline  
Old 03-22-2016, 11:06 PM
  #18  
Registered
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Ocala, Fl
Posts: 3,066
Likes: 0
Received 7 Likes on 7 Posts
Default

Great Post and project !!! FYI...I am using those same Johnson Crank Driven Water Pumps on my twin Vortecs in a Formula 255 Liberator...Tin Bravo I's. They work GREAT...good choice!!

Just make sure that you carefully set them up to spin true. Any wobble will shake like crazy.
sprink58 is offline  
Old 03-23-2016, 05:48 AM
  #19  
Registered
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Thanks Sprink...any advice on how to set them up to spin true? I was planning on the trial and error method.
enginerd is offline  
Old 03-23-2016, 07:45 AM
  #20  
Registered
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Ocala, Fl
Posts: 3,066
Likes: 0
Received 7 Likes on 7 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by enginerd
Thanks Sprink...any advice on how to set them up to spin true? I was planning on the trial and error method.
Sure...scribe or draw a line thru the center line of the pulley/damper. Once you get that set you can't miss...I think there's a 3: hole flange on the pump. Tighten them down uniformly and you should be "Cross Hairs" on.
sprink58 is offline  


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.