5.3 LS into a Four Winns U17 - Build Thread
#21
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Location: Dayton, OH/Burnside KY
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I know on my pump, it has .5" bolt holes, but the holes on the balancer are 5/16" or 3/8" thread. So I bought some shoulder bolts from McMaster Carr to make sure it centered and stayed centered.
#23
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It's going, just a bit slower than I want. I'll have a real update hopefully at the end of next week.
I sold the old Ford 5.0 block to one of my wife's coworkers. Mrs. Enginerd got the failed piston out of the block without my knowledge...and made this sweet trophy. Easily one of the best gifts ever. I'll post a picture of the top of the piston on the next update.
I sold the old Ford 5.0 block to one of my wife's coworkers. Mrs. Enginerd got the failed piston out of the block without my knowledge...and made this sweet trophy. Easily one of the best gifts ever. I'll post a picture of the top of the piston on the next update.
#24
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Hey Everyone,
Progress is still being made, albeit slowly. Here is a "better" photo of the cylinder above as promised.
Progress I made since last posting:
- Finished the engine mounts, minus paint.
- Cleaned bilge
- Removed fuel tank for cleaning.
- Stringer engine mounts are have been machined and ready to mount.
- Started learning the holley EFI software. Have a base tune ready...I think.
Next steps:
-Paint bilge
-Test fit engine
-Purchase manifolds and design/fab O2 spacers
More later...
Eric
Progress is still being made, albeit slowly. Here is a "better" photo of the cylinder above as promised.
Progress I made since last posting:
- Finished the engine mounts, minus paint.
- Cleaned bilge
- Removed fuel tank for cleaning.
- Stringer engine mounts are have been machined and ready to mount.
- Started learning the holley EFI software. Have a base tune ready...I think.
Next steps:
-Paint bilge
-Test fit engine
-Purchase manifolds and design/fab O2 spacers
More later...
Eric
#25
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It's going, just a bit slower than I want. I'll have a real update hopefully at the end of next week.
I sold the old Ford 5.0 block to one of my wife's coworkers. Mrs. Enginerd got the failed piston out of the block without my knowledge...and made this sweet trophy. Easily one of the best gifts ever. I'll post a picture of the top of the piston on the next update.
I sold the old Ford 5.0 block to one of my wife's coworkers. Mrs. Enginerd got the failed piston out of the block without my knowledge...and made this sweet trophy. Easily one of the best gifts ever. I'll post a picture of the top of the piston on the next update.
#26
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Hey Everyone,
We're getting closer, but ran into a few bumps.
I tore apart the motor this week and started replacing gaskets and seals. The local machine shop is cleaning up the heads. I should have the motor back together this weekend.
Unfortunately my plan to use the Summit Racing Damper SUM-C2520 with the Johnson F6B-9 raw water pump is not going to work. The pumps flange is too large for damper. The damper is 25% under driven, but that is all I’ve found for the LS truck motors. So I'm back to the drawing board.
Here is what I'm thinking...
- Replace the flange on the F6B-9 pump to fit the smaller bore of the damper. The shaft on the pump looks like it was swedged onto flange. I’m guessing I'll ruin the pump if I try.
- Switch over to “f-body”/Camaro damper and accessories. Summit and others (like Corey suggested) make a non-overdrive dampers, Summit Racing Damper SUM-C2500. This would require me to abandon the truck style alternator and power steering.
- Help?? I'd appreciate any thoughts you gents might have.
Thanks,
Eric
We're getting closer, but ran into a few bumps.
I tore apart the motor this week and started replacing gaskets and seals. The local machine shop is cleaning up the heads. I should have the motor back together this weekend.
Unfortunately my plan to use the Summit Racing Damper SUM-C2520 with the Johnson F6B-9 raw water pump is not going to work. The pumps flange is too large for damper. The damper is 25% under driven, but that is all I’ve found for the LS truck motors. So I'm back to the drawing board.
Here is what I'm thinking...
- Replace the flange on the F6B-9 pump to fit the smaller bore of the damper. The shaft on the pump looks like it was swedged onto flange. I’m guessing I'll ruin the pump if I try.
- Switch over to “f-body”/Camaro damper and accessories. Summit and others (like Corey suggested) make a non-overdrive dampers, Summit Racing Damper SUM-C2500. This would require me to abandon the truck style alternator and power steering.
- Help?? I'd appreciate any thoughts you gents might have.
Thanks,
Eric
#27
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the block has 3 or 4 threaded bosses where the factory ac compressor sits. could you make a braket and mount it there. and use the normal sea pump that has holes for a bracket. run it off ac compressor belt groove. thats what i planned on doing when i go bravo.
#28
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I thought about mounting a pump where the factory AC compressor sits, similar to Hardin Marine's LS Sea Water Pump . However, I think it'd be a bit of a pain to work around the Hardin Marine LS closed cooling kit.
I abandoned the truck accessories and ordered Holley's Alternator and PS Bracket. I'm exchanging the truck damper [Summit SUM-C2520] for the corvette damper [summit SUM-C2501]. This should have plenty of room for the raw water pumps mounting flange. Shortening the motor by 1.5" won't suck either.
I also ordered a marine alternator [Arco 60076] that should bolt to Holley's bracket.
Finally, I'm getting back my heads from the machine shop tomorrow. The goal of the weekend is to have the engine mostly reassembled. Keep me accountable guys...I can use all the motivation I can get.
I abandoned the truck accessories and ordered Holley's Alternator and PS Bracket. I'm exchanging the truck damper [Summit SUM-C2520] for the corvette damper [summit SUM-C2501]. This should have plenty of room for the raw water pumps mounting flange. Shortening the motor by 1.5" won't suck either.
I also ordered a marine alternator [Arco 60076] that should bolt to Holley's bracket.
Finally, I'm getting back my heads from the machine shop tomorrow. The goal of the weekend is to have the engine mostly reassembled. Keep me accountable guys...I can use all the motivation I can get.
#30
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I put a 4.8 in my Wellcraft, hooked up to an Alpha drive. My engine came out of a 2001 Silverado, I kept the truck accessory drive and mounting brackets.
Using closed loop with two 155kBTU titanium heat exchangers I bought off ebay. The Alpha drive doesn't provide sufficient water flow, and I also went the F6B pump route. You can use the March Performance 355 Crankshaft adapter to provide a mount for the water pump to the crankshaft, you will have to grind it some to get the adapter to fit all the way into the truck balancer. The only attachment issue is that the center hole on the 355 is slightly smaller than the center hole on the F6B, so you will have to fabricate an adapter to ensure that the pump is centered on the adapter. I made mine out of PVC plank, there's no load on it, and it's only to center so you can torque the bolts down on the adapter.
Using closed loop with two 155kBTU titanium heat exchangers I bought off ebay. The Alpha drive doesn't provide sufficient water flow, and I also went the F6B pump route. You can use the March Performance 355 Crankshaft adapter to provide a mount for the water pump to the crankshaft, you will have to grind it some to get the adapter to fit all the way into the truck balancer. The only attachment issue is that the center hole on the 355 is slightly smaller than the center hole on the F6B, so you will have to fabricate an adapter to ensure that the pump is centered on the adapter. I made mine out of PVC plank, there's no load on it, and it's only to center so you can torque the bolts down on the adapter.