F-2 Speedy

hopefully you'll get them soon and hot lap this beast, nice work kid.....

kidturbo

Looks bigger standing beside them.. Think we're good...

pasquesi

We don't know just how fast this beast is yet? Kid, you haven't really poured the coals to her in a big way, correct? I'm guessing well into the 90 plus area.

kidturbo

We haven't tested with any decent props yet. Slip numbers on the 18x34's we've been testing with was in the mid 20's. So if you do the math, knowing she's hit 84mph with that much prop slip, then mid 90's is reasonable with good props. Exactly where it ran factory with the 900SC's and 32 pitch on #6's. But now with the vent tubes I'm hoping she can spin up a pair of 38's or 40's, which should get us over the 100mph mark.

kidturbo

Wrapped up a few more items last week. Finished up everything in the transom area beside couple connectors on the #6 trim indicator wires. Taught another youngster how to tie safety wire. Well YouTube showed him how, then I demonstrated how not.. He fit the space and flexibility requirements, so left him to master it on is own. .051 safety wire, those transom bolts ain't backing out anytime soon...

Next we installed the upgraded battery boxes and freed up some standing room in the engine bay. With the old battery config [second photo], ya had nowhere to stand besides dead center on those plastic hatch covers. And you're always stepping on top of a battery to get in or out.. So I spun two of the batteries outward behind the jacks to free up space directly in front of the engines. Then made the tops of all 4 of batteries into matching steps. Problem solved.

Clean up the wiring a bit and I think it should look pretty nice with the side panels added.. New hatches and the center diamond plate going in After we get the engines fired up again.

kidturbo

Plan was to fire up both engines this weekend. But the charge coolers are not quite ready to install just yet. Remember that corrosion issue with powdercoating bubbling off of those a few pages back??

Well,, I had a helper spend several hours with aircraft stripper removing as much of that coating as humanly possible. Then dropped em off to the powdercoat shop to finish cleaning and try his best coating on them couple weeks back. He claims to have a "low temp" coating that will hold up to saltwater. So without a better short-term option, I said sure let's give it a try..

He called on Friday to say after chemically hot tank stripping, and sandblasting inside the caps, he noticed a small pinhole in an alum tube near a weld... Be mid-week now before they are ready to coat, so north for the Holidays I rolled..

FYI: Super-heated saltwater beats off-the-shelf chemical paint stripper in a head to head competition at removing chemical resistant coating from Aluminum.
.

outonsafari

I don't know what percentage of metal but i once upon a time had a good anchor windlass made of an aluminum magnesium alloy.
left unfinished on the bow since 95 there was next to zero corrosion, stainless bolts removed with a slight wrap on the wrench, threads were clean. The guts were worn and it needed a rebuild maybe i could find the pictures to show the housings condition.

A metal guy would know but i think the metal would make great end caps for the coolers, i guess an appropriate size hunk could be machined since the windlass housing was machined and threaded. Tough too, it held the boat at anchor no cleat needed.


https://www.goodwindlass.com/

kidturbo

Be interesting to know what material they used. Looks cast. Bronze seems to be the metal of choice for most all cooler caps. Just gotta get Banks to cut me some, or come off the cad files at lest. Thanks for the reminder to ring him up.

Twin O/B Sonic

Jeez, I take few months off from this thread and look what happens 😂

Can’t blame you or owner and figured it was only a matter of time.

Congrats on Fla.

Ive done it twice and loved it both times.

Working on a third 😉

2187

I just wanna go boating…..HAHA!