kidturbo

Thought it was appropriate for that switch, since I have no idea where the wires actually go...

Kefurr

delsol

hi Ken, what model mis that Simrad you nare usig for the tabs and drives? can't seem to find it on their site...
You are doing an awesome job on this build out!
thanks

kidturbo

That's a Simrad RS35. The RS42 is the latest design in same footprint. They may be discontinued, as I couldn't find any firmware updates last I looked. I found those listed new for $299 all the way up to $899 if ya Goggle shop. The one we have, picked up off eBay couple years back for like $275 open box just for this build.

kidturbo

Had very similar story conjured up.

The place I bought those covers from has all types of good ones ready. Or ya can roll your own if prefer.. These are actually the later model V series rocker covers, designed for fully backlit switches. But they seem fine in sunlight and not to annoying in the dark.
https://newwiremarine.com/marine-gra...etched-covers/

Runner up for the blank was...

kidturbo

Last of the electronics hardware arrived. Actually purchased these sweet etched LED push button switches from shop way over in Sydney AU. Which I find pretty funny..

Emergency Stop buttons are momentary, to trigger the positive air shutoff solenoid on intake throttle bodies. While the LOW/HIGH is latching switch with RGB LED's to sync both 2-spd transmission range shifts.

The last piece to the trany puzzle is a little Lingenfelter speedo triggered switch. It reads the x PPM square wave signal produced the Dakota GPS-50 unit, and allows you to set relay on/off speeds with dials on the front. It also has a cool reset mph offset setting. So if you set the up-shift or lockout low gear above 45mph, you can also program it to not reactivate again until the vehicle speed is below say 30mph. With the multi color LED switch, I can change switch colors based on if Low range is available or not. I mounted the controler down low so it can be fine tuned though the factory access panel, rather than pulling the IC plate.

kidturbo

Had some unenforceable delays pop in last week, but still accomplished a few tasks on the TTD list. The old IMCO tilt steering unit was shot, and there's currently only one replacement for the Char-Lynn / Eaton hydraulic steering pumps. It's a very nice but pricey stainless unit from same guy who built our tie-bar.

After pulling the "plastic" IMCO tilt unit, it seems they stole most of their parts from John Deere. That's who the patent comes back to. And after some tractor forum reading, these were the worst tilt unit ever put on a tractor also...
Actually found a good thread on how to remove the excessive play using a cut up paint can...


Ok, options are looking pretty slim. While a standard SeaStar Sport Plus is only like $150, and looks pretty much identical to the IMCO unit I took off. So, I start gutting the IMCO unit and find they just made an adapter shaft to fit that tractor tilt to the female splines on the Char-Lynn pumps. Most newer cable and hyd setups all use a straight key shaft. Purchased a SeaStar tilt unit "aluminum", and dropped it off to my machinist buddy to build us an A-Dapeter-Kit..

kidturbo

Also got most of the quad EGT gauge wired up. Had to run 100' of special KX shielded Thermocouple extension cable, and mount all the probes in the up-pipes. Also finished the low range shift button to isolated relays, and trans temp warning lights. There is a lot more wiring required than even I anticipated.

New cockpit speakers installed. Found some dude hiding inside the electronics closet. Said I'd let him out once the boat was rock'n..

payuppsucker

kidturbo

Shifter plate back from powdercoat. Think this one looks a bit classier than previous design.
Extended the data wires for the fuel gauge so no fishing in the dark to unplug it. Hopefully the next guy to to pull IC will appreciate that..

One big hole in the dash left over from the old trim indicators to fill. Have an idea for that one I'll try out today when at the welding shop finishing the exhaust pipes.