class6

I see a nice place for air intakes

outonsafari

right, and if those holes weren't cut i wouldn't be under the gun to pop em off that mold, or round 2 of the duct mold anyway

tommymonza

Definitely a 26 /8 0ld Monza hull from Keith Eckhard from Fort Lauderdale back in the early 70s. I think that was his last name. Could never get any information out of Brownie of who designed the hull. To me it had way to many similarities to a 24 Cigarette hull not to come from it.
.i never thought it was a great design,too much rocker, but supposedly it was the bottom copied for the 28!Apachie .

outonsafari

when you were making boats from the monza molds what power and drive did you use ?
what years, materials and schedule ?
pictures

i agree it's not the best design for all out speed,
the strakes end around 8 feet from the transom, and they end soft and rounded

which is fine for me the design probably runs out of bottom around the speeds i'm looking for
but there is no rocker, more like a 1/16 hook from chine to chine in a little more than 12 inches
and it's very consistent all the way across. pretty straight up to that point.
(maybe it's just screwed up)

wish it did have a rocker, the bottom as i see it w/ the 6 foot straight edge played a role in the speedmaster decision

outonsafari

in the first 2 pics you can see how the floor goes thru the dash and the notch cut out by the filler neck
and the rear you can see how the floor is stepped.

the boat had a transmission engine and driveline, but the engine room was bravo length, so the gas tank was moved forward
something like 10 - 11 inches, this caused the front bulkhead to be moved forward (out of align with the rest of that section)
which is the dash.
the rear bulkhead which was the firewall like i said was stepped. pics 3 and 4 show both

outonsafari

turns out the only section of the hull that is cored was under the tank, a 112 gallon behemoth.
the foam was dry the tank was externally in very good condition, inside there was some liquid, thick dark and stinky
but it was too big to fit into the planned work
i used a 2 1/8 hole saw and openend all the drains under the floor, everything was dry except the first winglet next to the gas filler neck from the previous post. there was plenty of baltec laying around from opening up the dash so it got replaced with it.

best thing about opening up the floor pulling the tank and drain holes is simple, it's dry and i know it.
the drains got wrapped in 1708 scuffed and brushed w/ 610 same as the engine room post.

outonsafari

new battery trays and bilge pump platform, then the bulkheads got scribe cut to fit and bedded down using 1708 and cabosil
they got glassed and tabbed in and i layed some 1708 up the belly overlapping like roof shingles , the trays got bedded down on 1708
and tabbed in immediately after the bulkheads. that was a long day
since the dash bulkhead in the belly got moved back in line, the center stringers had to be added to as well.

the edges of the remaining original floor and the winglets were all rounded off and wrapped with 1708 to keep them dry
the underside of the original floor got painted also

outonsafari

i made a board that fit in there and glassed the bottom of it.. the board and belly got 2 coats of paint.
the edges of the board was scribe cut to fit the boat real good,

the paint is held back so it doesn't interfer bedding it down
a spline (ply and 2x4 ) was screwed to the top of the bellyboard to hold it straight, and after it was bedded down with 1708
and cabosil, left to cure for a couple days the spline was pulled and those 3 screw holes filled.

so the belly under the board and the bottom of the bellyboard have extra glass and are painted since there is drainage underneath
and just because no one will ever see it, doesn't mean it shouldn't look nice.

outonsafari

the belly board was layed out and glassed down with a gutter lengthwise down the middle for a water drain
you can see it in the 3rd pic, the 2nd layer of tabbing covered it and when it dried it was scuffed and i swiped 610 down it to make it smooth.

the new gas tank gets bolted in place, no foam. fortunately i got some good advice as to it's contruction, some other mods
and best probable way to mount it.
the space is 62 x 34, height can be 10 inches and still clear the angle so hopefully that will yeild at least 1/2 the original amount.
it will sit on some rubber strips that go side to side but not on the gutter, this way the water that gets in there should drain.

the floor opens up and is supported by 3 inch aluminum angle. 4 pieces of angle are bolted to the bulkheads w/ 5200
and 1/4 inch aluminum backing plates that were made using a hole saw.
the floor supports are bolted to those and are removeable.

the floor is 1/2 inch marine ply covered and wrapped in mat and have twist locks to hold them closed.
when you stand in the bolster your feet are on the stringer and the angle so it's plenty strong.

the whole idea of the removable floor, bolted in tank, overkill on the drains and sealing them and everything else is simple,
the boat should never need to be cut open again.
i can wash rinse and vac out every compartment of the boat and verify those compartments,.

almost forgot, since the floor is 1/2 inch i hole sawed 4 pieces of 3/4 and bonded them into the floor so the take apart
hinges would be flush, you can see 1 of them in the last pic.

class6

Looks great Dan!