outonsafari

after some research and reading, and advice from the tech guys i have an order placed for the material to bond in the patch.
then another phone call to get straightened out on a technical question regarding what the tech guys said,
now i think i have a schedule to follow.

clean out original patch seam with multi tool
635 epoxy mixed w/ 404 thru a caulk gun into seam
apply 635 to transom and patch wait approx 40 minutes. (hot coat / absorbent coat )
wet out 1700 (no mat)
instal patch,

patch will be drilled and bolted into place using the top 6 bravo bolt holes @ aprox. 10 pounds of torque while the 635 cures for up to 18 hours.

once cured the bolts get removed and the bolt holes will get doweled, the seam around the new patch will get 635 mixed w/ 404 syrnged into it
and the patch glassed over as follows;

4 layers of 1700 w/ the 635 epoxy. after freshening up the area w/ a new 36 grit pad.
not sure what is needed to rustoleum paint over the epoxy after it's cured.

but the phone call and time explaining it to me was greatly appreciated, the technical stuff really goes over my head.
thanks dave.

anyone see 's a problem with how i plan to bond in and glass over the patch, please feel free to chime
in and voice your opinion / set me straight.

thank you

hblair

Just found this thread. Very good looking work man.

outonsafari

thank you,
went thru your 300 thread, and think you did a great job.
following yours and endeavors 38 thread with interest as well.

ups brought epoxy and related materials today so transom patch will happen over the weekend weather permitting.

outonsafari

the multi tool was used to clean out the seam since there was some voids in it
then the seam got a coat of 635 epoxy.
after the suggested amount of wait time i had some 635 mixed with 404 hi density filler and some 1700 strands.

i cut a strip 50 inch x 1 inch of 1700 and pulled it apart till there was just a pile strands.
the thought was it would be stronger like fibrous concrete or throwing steel in concrete.

the mix went into an empty caulk gun tube, from there into a plastic syringe
nice thing about the syringe, it hits bottom so squeeze and pull out over and over fills the gap with no air.
use the tube for big gaps and syringe for tighter gaps

the result was less than perfect,
went a little light on the 404 so the mix was a bit runny, and swiping it with the bondo spreader
pulled the strands and made it worse, so i filled the gap till the mix was gone and just in case had a tube of 610
on stand by and finished it off with the syrnge and swiping it till it stopped sagging, 5 minutes or so.

it's filled solid now, say 50 50 with the mix and 610, but 610 is made from 635 resin and 406 filler,
610 is supposed to be a premixed gap filler / bonding adhesive so i'm confident.

outonsafari

24 hours later the seam is cured and the surface was re ground,
when i put the mix in, the 4 middle bravo holes got filled so the idea of using 6 bolts to clamp the patch
in place went out the window.
the patch and transom got a coat of 635 resin and after the suggested wait time,
2 layers of 1700 got dry rolled onto the patch, then a batch of 404 got mixed and a thin layer swiped on the transom
where there was some multi tool marks, old dowels and splinters of wood missing here and there.

the transom jig was used to hold and clamp in the bottom, the patch was pre drilled in 9 places and it got screwed on
lowest to highest, as the bolt and screws were snugged up 404 and 635 squeezed out from the seam, so again,
confident that the patch is bonded in good.

tomorrow we can all have a good laugh when the transom jig ends up being bonded to the outside

outonsafari

pressed a piece of cardboard under a piece of 3/4 marine ply under the truck tire.
cut to the exact size of the glass and skinned the cardboard with wax paper and blue tape.

4 layers of 1700 all cut real nice and marked for centerline
boat marked for centerline.

hardener and epoxy pre poured
404 filler pre mixed.

boat got a hot coat and after the appropriate waiting time,
(hardener cup rolled around to coat cup, resin poured into that)

mix 404,syrnge in and swipe
mix and wet out glass smallest to biggest stacking it up, then using the marks put it on the transom
and the air bubble roller to work it all out.
good plan, execution, well !

IGetWet

Nice work! Very informative. Gotta follow this, this type of work is my very weak spot.

outonsafari

thank you,
my weak spot too, just checked it, it looks real nice and is dry to the touch
next week the hole will be re cut cleaned up and epoxy 1700. then it can start getting put back together

lightspeed

I just found this thread ,,wow u are doing a great job on it,,I had the first one out of the mold Steve is my good friend ,,Had it rigged with a mild big block 500+ hp bravo drive 18 1/2 up went 78 no problem loved the boat went thru anything I will see if i can find some pics ,,looked the same all white,,but mine had the cockpit back seat 2 bolsters up front,,,

outonsafari

lightspeed, thank you.

i hope steve feels the same way.
would be great if you dug up some pics of yours, did yours have a cabin as well as the cockpit bathtub.
powering mine with a 496 mag ho, X is 17 9/16 square method, so prop should be at 4 1/4, and i'd be happy
if it ran a well mannered 70, with a mirage plus (pitch to be determined)