madbouyz

I guess we can rule out prop torque then. And I guess it would be dumb to ask if you're accidentally holding any water in the under floor compartments on one side as the boat would have a bad list on that side at rest which you would no doubt already have noticed.
Only other thing I can think of , is the bottom straight ?

Cauter

I put a straight edge from the transom going forward and it seems straight as far as not having a hook. Definitely not holding any water. It's extremely light to the point where I can rock it back and forth over a foot like a jon boat by just shifting my weight left to right at the console.

PARASAIL941

How does it react with more speed? Are you trimming it out to raise bow? I've had this happen on 25 Hyrosports. They would flop over to one side of the hull at 20-25 mph without positive trim , and just ride like this. Increased speed and trim straightened them right up. Be careful when learning boat , lanyard and jacket just in case. Good luck!!!

Cauter

I'm in the process of dialing in props so I'm not sure about WOT, but anything above 25 it's straight as an arrow. I'm hoping the new tabs will help at lower speeds.

madbouyz

This was going to be my next suggestion. Some boats are very prone to this while with others it makes little difference .

Cauter

Well the "like new" transom was looking pretty rough when I went to change to bigger trim tabs so it was all stop and time to replace what ever we may find in there. The last guy went from the outside so I decided I would too because it didn't look that great.




The 1/4" thick galvanized angle that was supposed to be added support. It actually just made the transom two pieces.













Still not quite done, but hopefully this weekend.

Cauter

I went ahead and started on the hull sides while I wait on the material for the transom. I found the faint outline of the name Dominator on the sides but it didn't show up in the pictures. I also found it was once registered in Florida before.

ren3

WE do love our projects. I would be very concerned about the inboard connection to the stringers and splashwell. I would open up the splashwell inside the transom and double check the tabbing and reinforce it at a minimum.. The inner pieces of plywood in the picture that you posted after removing the outer transom do not fill the entire inner transom area. The area where you are bolting the new motors is only two thicknesses of plywood and glass in places where the lower mounting bolts will be. You are hanging a lot of weight on the two pieces of plywood and the 1708. There is not much bonding area to the hull sides and bottom. You are depending on the inner structure of the old transom for strength. I just would not trust this without inspection.Also the vinyl drain tubes are not going to be bonded to and seal the new transom work. They should be replaced by fiberglass drain tubes that you can easily fabricate and bond to the new transom sealing the new plywood core as you do it. I applaud your efforts and just want to add some sincere advice so that you are safe and pleased with the final outcome. Bob.

Cauter

I left out a few pictures as not to bore everyone. I laid a total of 6 layers of 1708 to the original tabbing of the inner skin and also put in 2 stringers between the original skin and the bulkhead. I also made sure I completely filled in between the hull sides and new ply with some 406. I also made the holes around the drains 2 1/2 times larger and filled them in with 406 as well.

Cauter

I also placed a piece of aluminum c channel with rounded edges inside the transom and I have another for inside the splash well for helping distribute the weight across the transom. I also plan on laying up a few layers of 1708 on the inside before mounting motors.