kreed

Im so happy there is another amazing build thread! Kidturbo's was one of my favs over the last couple years. This one also amazes me! I wish I had the talent and skills you guys have! If this was me, I'd be like..."I wonder if they sell these valve covers in chrome???" Haha...amazing job

bossbrakes

Now this is a cool project, a lot different than just sticking the 55th million'th V8 into a boat. When My Checkmate finished this spring I was contemplating something similar. I was looking at the DDC/MTU V16 diesel. cast iron V16 with 2000 cu in. 8000 LBS motor though.

ksalmine

It's time to make final driveline plan. I didn't show drive drawings before because they may be come commercial product some day, if they work well, but its maybe better put drawings here so it could attracts interest. What you think about $10k bulletproof surface drive...?

I have think alot of fill notch but it seems that I won't. Drives can not be lower than maybe 1.5" if notch is filled, My design drives has smaller socket housing than arneson, notch is 255mm and extension box lower side is 300mm. Props are 52" far from boat bottom and 4" above bottom measured straight line front of drives. If one inch per foot of setback is true, neutral trim angle is perfect to go fast. Third pic fool eye because lowest line is keel, drives are just above lift strike and notch.

Second drawing show drives trim angles, red is max up, green dot max down and black is neutral trim angle, they should be ok,

First drawing show engine framing and split box, everything should line up perfectly, driveshaft angles are 0 degree at neutral trim angle so heat production to CV joints are minimal. Carbon drive shafts barely goes above notch in engine room, but they should fit so I don't have to raise engine up, it will make center of gravity worse. Now engine will come pretty deep in bilge. Extension box could be 6mm steel sheet build, if CV joint explodes they should not make bad destruction inside boxes.

I probably mount turbos too low, water will flow in if they are too low, but it can be fixed when all measures come true.

Props will come little out from swim platform that I don't like, but they must be apart enough from bottom leading edge so water can get up enough before props.

Next autumn this forever lasting project will get forward, I hope. Work, house project and two weeks old lovely daughter take all time now.

IGetWet

A $10,000 bullet proof surface drive? Sign me up!

Very impressive so far. Keep it up!

rak rua

Congratulations to you and ‘Mrs. ksalmine’ on your new daughter!
Sleepless nights and baby shopping may slow your work on the boat but family comes first.
(But only just )

RR

offshorexcursion

You need to fill the notch and lower the drives.

The drives can only be mounted as low as the bottom edge of the drop box flush with the bottom of the notch. Problem is let's say the drive has a 8" diameter. That puts the propshaft which is centered about 4" UP from the bottom of the boat!!! That's too high. I love Arnesons and surface drives more than anyone but the only downfall except cost is how hard it is to mount them low enough.

message me for drawings and more details

green lightning

I don't know they look pretty close to a good spot , but I would like to know the dimensions on the second drawing , green circle to the bottom of the drive socket . My boxes are mounted close to the same spot .but I have different drop boxes.

green lightning

The lowest spot on my boxes are a 1/2 in above the running surface directly in front of the boxes

green lightning

These guys run a filled notch because the drops are tipped inward

F-2 Speedy

Thats the 4 engine monster.............^^^^^^^^^