CDShack

Thermo-choke powered off the coil posts or coil powered off the choke? Might unplug and see what happens? Voltage drain or a short in the choke shorting the coil? Grasping straws.

outonsafari

Hey thanks for the tips and tricks guys, i'll be checking for voltage in both run and start tomorrow

From the key yellow w/red goes to nuetral safety to S on the remote solenoid. nuetral safety has continuity in nuetral and doesnt in f & r.
from the key purple goes to the choke to coil to distributor.
i can test for voltage and jump/unplug as needed but i think the culprit is the module in the distributor which is nla.

it gets better, first try i lost prime and got no fuel. After leaving it on the charger all day at 7pm i went out for round 2.
I got fuel primed and some in a cup to pour down the carb, the pump pumps like crazy when cranking, right up the clear vynil tube to the carb and all over the engine.

the pump is 60 bucks and back ordered thru summit, same part number from a boat place is 200 bucks.
the dist and electric conversion parts are nla, all of the special diameter reverse rotation dist gears are non existent, d.u.i. sells a right hand rot distributor but its 500 bucks and on a 6-8 week back order.

2 months to start an engine so i can find out what else it needs get that sorted out and then order the new shaft and coupler bed the stern tube finish installing the running gear, forget it.

i screwed up, made a mistake, told myself get a good engine first, get the hull based off the engine.
All the youtube i watch and i still screwed up, people run boats till the caulk gives out then they recaulk it and go till it sinks, they only park it when the engine quits,

I told myself "it's always the engine dummy"

resurrected

Should be able to switch to a '80s duraspark II ford ignition. Magnetic pickup in the distributor and dead simple ignition box, I can't remember how much centrifugal timing advance there is off the top of my head. Not marine parts, but junkyard stuff to get you going until something else is available.
Any mustang guy would have the parts on a shelf that could be had cheap or borrowed
Just make sure the oil pump shaft is the same size, it's been many years since I played with SBF, took a bit for that tidbit to surface in my grey matter.

outonsafari

The engine is right hand rotation or it would be easier and cheaper to get a distributor, good luck finding a gear with the right i.d.

i could always cut the bottom off put it on legs and make an outdoor ski boat bar & grill

resurrected

Ah, that explains why the firing order looked wonky, I just chalked it up to getting old and not remembering the firing order. That does complicate things
No easy answer for that one
Haha that would be the nicest overbuilt bar ever!

outonsafari

Turning it into a bar or putting a hot tub where the engine goes for parade float or party barge rental might be the only way it's not a total loss and the hull ends up under the dozer tracks down at the brevard county landfill.

first off, the battery after being on the charger all day yesterday was reading 10 volts today, therefore i get 10 volts with key on run and with key on start all the way thru to the alternator.
the battery is on a switch and nothing is hot unless it's on, the switch was 100 percent turned off yesterday, i had to turn it on to test everything today.

i have good continuity of ground all the way thru to the alternator.

disconnect distributor purple from coil positive and black from coil negative
and have no continuity of ground to the block or the housing on the black wire, the housing has continuity to the block.

what i think is wrong is continuity is everywhere, choke coil and alternator purple wires to block, to ground, to itself across the board.

Distributor tag reads
FOJL 12100 CA
7808 BS 3J 27

i disconnected the battery completely and called it quits.

resurrected

The work you have do so far is incredible, don't get discouraged now! We want to see some videos of it dragging you around the lake on those trick skis!
Troubleshooting electrical can be frustrating, just proceed one wire at a time.
Sounds like a dead cell in the battery.
Check the gap in the points, and look for carbon, they can be finicky sometimes, test the condenser. (my method for testing was- charge it up, and very carefully, only touching the insulation toss it to whoever is nearby. If they get a huge jolt, it's good)
Also does it have a ballast resistor?

outonsafari

The distributor was converted to electric ignition years before i got it. Believe the module is bad and it is no longer available.
the engine has all new wiring harness and new 1.5 ohm coil specifically for the conversion and doesn't require the ballast resistor.

the ballast resistor i found out is a piece of ceramic with a spring in it ! What it does and how it does it is black magic and i don't need no black magic, witchcraft, hoodoo voodoo and all kinds a weird **** in my life

resurrected

Man you do have a challenge! I believe there are still a couple of options to look at. What is the triggering device inside the distributor now? Can it be made to trigger another type of ignition control module? If not what is the shaft dimension? Can your reverse rotation gear be installed on a newer generation distributor? Can it be modified to work on a newer generation distributor?
Haha, you know I have never considered the actual physics of the ballast resistor. I just know that 12 volts goes in and 9ish comes out! And all Mopar guys had a spare in the glove box or it was already fastened to the current one (pun intended) for when it fails.

outonsafari

I did some testing today via directions to check the ignition module in the distributor, it will go from 12 to 0 volts while cranking allowing the coil to build up and fire, it didn't do it so no spark.

I think there is a gear but it needs to be set to a specific depth which i can't do. Something about dist rests on block not intake and isn't shimmed like chevy, i don't know.

fresh eyes tomorrow, trace confirm and multi meter everything for voltage