Back from the Dead; '81 Scarab 38 Resto
#901
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Funny Dan! It can be fixed but it’s a lot simpler to weld a new one on. I got in touch with Michael down at Myco today, yep, the fenders and the little boxes are super cheap. I’m also getting axle hardware too. Going to replace everything underneath the trailer. I’ve already got new brake hardware that came with the trailer.
Also Billy’s been working on the tabs and got some more hardware painted...
Also Billy’s been working on the tabs and got some more hardware painted...
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larslindroth (05-14-2020)
#902
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Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Jackson, n.j. ~ Brooklyn, n.y.
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Have the same (I think as yours) steel Myco trailer.......Mine 'an 82 sits under my '82 35' Cig......tube axles, leaf springs etc' etc; old but never really used (boat & trailer sat for 20 years in storage)
Curious to your upgrade changes since I will be making improvements soon as well.....Your '81 Scarab has come a long way in distance & refit........rebirth of it's old skool charm is better than new!
Curious to your upgrade changes since I will be making improvements soon as well.....Your '81 Scarab has come a long way in distance & refit........rebirth of it's old skool charm is better than new!
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golfmaxgolf (05-09-2020)
#903
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Thanks scippy, I’m not really upgrading the trailer, just getting it back non rusty. This trailers 48’ from hitch to rear. I like the drive guard and gate on it. I think it’s an 06 and originally had an outerlimits on it. I’ve got new brakes for all axles that can with the trailer. We had to burn all the stands off and will be replacing them with open c channel prolly. Not as purty but can’t rust from the inside.
the balsa came in and I got the engine room bottom cored. Two layers of 1708 on top. Should be plenty strong. I laid about 4 pieces in the center of the front to get the water to shed rearward. Also left core out of the center rear where the bilge pumps gonna be.
the balsa came in and I got the engine room bottom cored. Two layers of 1708 on top. Should be plenty strong. I laid about 4 pieces in the center of the front to get the water to shed rearward. Also left core out of the center rear where the bilge pumps gonna be.
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#904
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Also got me a blingy stainless bilge dump. Instead of the factory plastic job.
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hblair (05-11-2020)
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Heath, after a lot of inspecting and thinking, the stands don’t rot from the inside, they rot in between the stand and the crossmember. All my stands and my tool box rotted between the piece and whatever it was welded to. I Sprayed a ton of fluid film in each one and sealed the bottom where I didn’t weld with a bead of silicone. Hope that helps
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hblair (05-11-2020)
#907
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Heath, after a lot of inspecting and thinking, the stands don’t rot from the inside, they rot in between the stand and the crossmember. All my stands and my tool box rotted between the piece and whatever it was welded to. I Sprayed a ton of fluid film in each one and sealed the bottom where I didn’t weld with a bead of silicone. Hope that helps
#908
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Look at post 671. You can see what I’m talking about.
#909
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Here’s what I’m talking about. This is outline left from where my stands were welded to my trailer crossmembers. It was welded all the way around on just about all of them. There was no rust in between there. Just bad rust from inside the square tubing. It would’ve been a lot better if they would have welded caps on the bottoms of the square tubing. But at one point do you stop on a boat trailer? LOL.
Plus this trailer was abused pretty bad, to be as new as it is...
Plus this trailer was abused pretty bad, to be as new as it is...
#910
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that’s all the coring. Hopefully all I’ve got left is the bulkheads in the cabin aside from some small things like working the old water intake holes and fairing the running surface. The rest as far as hull and deck work is block sanding, urethane primer, prepping to paint.
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