Priority for 38 Scarab
09-05-2017, 05:15 AM
#1
Rigging a 38 Scarab
Hi Everyone,
I need some input on what to do with my old 1993 Scarab 38 Thunder... It has 496 Mercury HOs with the original Bravo Ones, running Bravo 4, 26" props.
First of all, the props seem a little too big. I don't have trustworthy numbers on rpms since only one of the tachs work and I dont trust it, but a guy I talked to with the exact same drivelike claimed that Rev 4s 25" props did the job for him, after testing a lot of different props...
The thing is I think I have to pull the engines out this winter to give the boat a proper overhaul, maybe replace the transom as well, while I'm at it. Now to my questions:
Should I raise the X-dimension at the same time? If so, by how much?
Would rasing the outdrives cause an overheating problem due to the water intakes (not the low water intakes) being to far up?
Should I get a pair of shorties instead?
Would I benefit from extension boxes, or would that just be throwing money overboard, as this is a 70 mph boat?
Would nose cones help or make things worse?
Should I consider replacing the outdrives into something else instead of rebuilding them?
Are there any other changes that would be beneficial without costing a fortune? (...keeping in mind that I'm on a limited budget and I still value dependability over performance.)
Looking forward to your idéas on this!
I need some input on what to do with my old 1993 Scarab 38 Thunder... It has 496 Mercury HOs with the original Bravo Ones, running Bravo 4, 26" props.
First of all, the props seem a little too big. I don't have trustworthy numbers on rpms since only one of the tachs work and I dont trust it, but a guy I talked to with the exact same drivelike claimed that Rev 4s 25" props did the job for him, after testing a lot of different props...
The thing is I think I have to pull the engines out this winter to give the boat a proper overhaul, maybe replace the transom as well, while I'm at it. Now to my questions:
Should I raise the X-dimension at the same time? If so, by how much?
Would rasing the outdrives cause an overheating problem due to the water intakes (not the low water intakes) being to far up?
Should I get a pair of shorties instead?
Would I benefit from extension boxes, or would that just be throwing money overboard, as this is a 70 mph boat?
Would nose cones help or make things worse?
Should I consider replacing the outdrives into something else instead of rebuilding them?
Are there any other changes that would be beneficial without costing a fortune? (...keeping in mind that I'm on a limited budget and I still value dependability over performance.)
Looking forward to your idéas on this!
Last edited by Scarab Viking; 09-05-2017 at 09:19 AM.
09-05-2017, 01:59 PM
#2
Platinum Member
Platinum Member
If your going to replace the transom I would raise the X by 2 inches this will not affect the cooling water thru the drive. Make sure you check your stringers as well for moisture. I don't believe that stand off boxes would help you that much with the engine combination you have but raising the X will make a nice improvement. and your already having to cut the transom. Good luck with your project. Regards Dan
09-05-2017, 02:55 PM
#3
Thanks Dan!
I have already replaced stringers and bulkheads in the cabin due to moisture. It seemed though that they were fine further back. Do you know how to go about if the stringers under the cockpit need to be replaced? Should I remove the entire cockpit or is the best way to cut up the cockpit floor?
Any ideas on suitable propellers?
I have already replaced stringers and bulkheads in the cabin due to moisture. It seemed though that they were fine further back. Do you know how to go about if the stringers under the cockpit need to be replaced? Should I remove the entire cockpit or is the best way to cut up the cockpit floor?
Any ideas on suitable propellers?
09-07-2017, 02:59 AM
#4
Starting to have nightmares about rotted stringers underneath the cockpit floor...
Does anyone know how to get to these, to find out whether they are ok or not?
If they are wet/rotten - has anyone replaced the stringers under the cockpit floor of a 87-97 Scarab 38?
How is the best way to go about this? The cockpit seems to be one big mold, put in before the deck sealed it all off (the latter being glassed to the hull...)
With that many Scarabs out there, there's got to be someone who's already gone through these dilemmas?
Does anyone know how to get to these, to find out whether they are ok or not?
If they are wet/rotten - has anyone replaced the stringers under the cockpit floor of a 87-97 Scarab 38?
How is the best way to go about this? The cockpit seems to be one big mold, put in before the deck sealed it all off (the latter being glassed to the hull...)
With that many Scarabs out there, there's got to be someone who's already gone through these dilemmas?
09-07-2017, 12:08 PM
#7
Thanks! However, these "newer" models have decks that are glassed to the hulls... So if I should take the whole deck off I'd have to cut it up and then glass it back... Seems I'm going to have to cut up the cockpit floor instead, unless there's another way?
Does anyone know how the innerliner of the cockpit is attached to the stringers?
Does anyone know how the innerliner of the cockpit is attached to the stringers?
Last edited by Scarab Viking; 09-07-2017 at 12:13 PM.
09-07-2017, 01:22 PM
#8
Platinum Member
Platinum Member
There is a panel in the floor that is removable to get to the fuel tank if you remove that and the fuel tank you have nice access to the stringers we have done a few of the smaller Scarabs main stringers but have had no problems with the 38s to this point.
09-07-2017, 11:43 PM
#10
Thanks again for all replies on how these things are constructed! It sure gives a better idea on what to expect!
