oil pressure whats bad whats good
09-24-2018, 10:34 PM
#21
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No water pressure gauges? if this has always been an issue since rebuilds (18 hrs) I would think a bad impeller woulda let go long ago but good point though. Housing possibly worn and or combination of the two. Just for a piece of mind without spending much money a couple mechanical water pressure gauges would be helpful. Even if there just temporary for time being. That difference in oil temp is quite a bit. I've never used a cam driven pump but like a fuel pump I could see where one could wear internally. You ever do a comparison with engines cold. Up to at least 2,500 anyway. One other thing is if you ever did have an impeller grenade that you had to replace. They can go in some mysterious places. You running t-stats?
as to cam driven pumps,,i already had to replace one.... housing was all scored up..and the second one..the plate on housing was all scored up also...but machine shop surfaced it down,,but i think that one is on its way out. once the housing are scored ,,they are junk.
going to change over to normal water and when i put on my closed coolant system ,,,,i will run a crank driven pump.
next time out or i could check the cold start up pressure in driveway..,,,but engine never warm up in driveway...
motors run good,,,just dont like the low oil pressure
i ran a super gas camaro back in the day ,,,motor had 40 psi at 1500 rpm,,,as that was the idle rpm...
09-25-2018, 01:13 AM
#22
Charter Member # 55
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good question,,the starbd engine is running little hotter than port engine...
stbd is running about 160ish and if a am running 4 to 5 thousand the oil temp will get up 250 260
then when back off to 3500 300 oil emp comes back to 230 240
port mtor runs 120ish never seen oil temp above 230 running hard on that motor..
i am thinking the impeller in my gleenwood cam driven pump is going bad..
think i am going to switch back to normset up
stbd is running about 160ish and if a am running 4 to 5 thousand the oil temp will get up 250 260
then when back off to 3500 300 oil emp comes back to 230 240
port mtor runs 120ish never seen oil temp above 230 running hard on that motor..
i am thinking the impeller in my gleenwood cam driven pump is going bad..
think i am going to switch back to normset up
09-25-2018, 08:33 AM
#23
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assuming that one of the coolers is for trans and one for engine those look like pretty small coolers for a 547 stout big block. that would explain the high oil temps, the last ones I did ran 3x18 coolers and would cruise at around 200 and if you ran hard it would climb to maybe 230 but come down within seconds of going back to 4000 or so. before that it had coolers like yours and I could never keep the oil temps below 220-230. I still go back to my earlier statement that if the motors are indeed identical then the pressures should be close. based on that there is something not the same. bad pump, crack in the pickup tube, odd clearance, or some internal leak or bypass valve in one of them different. at this point all you can do is guess.
09-25-2018, 09:58 AM
#24
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I had high oil temps and low oil pressure (40psi @4000 and dropping) with shallow 10qt. pans. with no oil pick up protection.
The crank would aerate the oil. Aerated oil doesn`t like to give up heat and it`s no good for pressure.
Deeper pans with pickup protection solved all that . (14qt as pictured)
One of my motors has always been 10psi lower except for around 3500 rpm. Not sure why but it hasn`t been an issue.
The crank would aerate the oil. Aerated oil doesn`t like to give up heat and it`s no good for pressure.
Deeper pans with pickup protection solved all that . (14qt as pictured)
One of my motors has always been 10psi lower except for around 3500 rpm. Not sure why but it hasn`t been an issue.
09-25-2018, 05:24 PM
#25
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I had high oil temps and low oil pressure (40psi @4000 and dropping) with shallow 10qt. pans. with no oil pick up protection.
The crank would aerate the oil. Aerated oil doesn`t like to give up heat and it`s no good for pressure.
Deeper pans with pickup protection solved all that . (14qt as pictured)
One of my motors has always been 10psi lower except for around 3500 rpm. Not sure why but it hasn`t been an issue.
The crank would aerate the oil. Aerated oil doesn`t like to give up heat and it`s no good for pressure.
Deeper pans with pickup protection solved all that . (14qt as pictured)
One of my motors has always been 10psi lower except for around 3500 rpm. Not sure why but it hasn`t been an issue.
but i think i have corvette pans,,,the is a rap door and sheet metal forming an area pickup goes.
think my system is about 8-9 quarts?? i run the long wix filters, my engine builder told me to try a high flow filter..
think i am going to check oil pressure with another mechancial gauage , but not 25 feet of hose. i wonder if that distance can be an issue,,,but pressure is pressure,,,i was told..
thanks for info...
09-25-2018, 06:33 PM
#26
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I just mentioned the water pressure gauges in which case you were running lower pressure and less volume on the stb side. Can be frustrating when engines don't synchronize but not uncommon. Your going through the process of elimination at least. Inline Oil cooler does look a little small but still wouldn't make sense when lefty is same as righty. You have plumbed neatly though. Length hose should have no affect but then again could have some air trapped in the hose giving you some funky readings. I've never had that happen but stranger things happen. Your on the right track and seem knowledgeable and getting some good advice. Might drain both blocks after running also just to make sure you get near equal amount of water out of each just for the heck of it. Not sure where your pick ups are at but I'd maybe work my way froward from there making sure everything is clear after you solve the mechanical oil gauge location. Once I've thought I've seen it all something always amazes me from a shop rag, rubber hose, wrenches, sockets, you name it in places one would never expect to ever see. Just sayin... don't take that wrong by any means as you seem very particular. I just don't know history etc.
09-25-2018, 08:05 PM
#27
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Totally new engines to you or rebuilds ? If totally new what was in the boat before and what type of pressures did they have ? I agree with the others that the 60lb one is more than enough.
09-26-2018, 05:13 PM
#28
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the motors were 510's..4 inch strke 4.50 bore,,i made the stroke 4.25,,and bore 4.530,,so i guess u would say they have been rebuilt...
Last edited by flashgordon; 09-26-2018 at 06:16 PM. Reason: spelling
09-26-2018, 06:29 PM
#29
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I just mentioned the water pressure gauges in which case you were running lower pressure and less volume on the stb side. Can be frustrating when engines don't synchronize but not uncommon. Your going through the process of elimination at least. Inline Oil cooler does look a little small but still wouldn't make sense when lefty is same as righty. You have plumbed neatly though. Length hose should have no affect but then again could have some air trapped in the hose giving you some funky readings. I've never had that happen but stranger things happen. Your on the right track and seem knowledgeable and getting some good advice. Might drain both blocks after running also just to make sure you get near equal amount of water out of each just for the heck of it. Not sure where your pick ups are at but I'd maybe work my way froward from there making sure everything is clear after you solve the mechanical oil gauge location. Once I've thought I've seen it all something always amazes me from a shop rag, rubber hose, wrenches, sockets, you name it in places one would never expect to ever see. Just sayin... don't take that wrong by any means as you seem very particular. I just don't know history etc.
yea,,maybe i need to go to a larger oil cooler..but i dont know ..how the heck i would get down there to swap out for larger oil cooler...trust me,,take a look at my engine compartment,,,sure would like to have staggered motors.. as i said before i think its time to go to normal water pump ,,than crank driven sea pump i want to put closed system on boat,,,retiring near ocean....
i was never able to get the line to bleed out,,,i would of thought just loosening up the fitting would have been enough, but it wasnt and i didnt want to break line totally off gauge. so never has ever bleed out properly.
my engine builder,,,says pressure is presuure??
wow...draining the blocks,,,its a nightmare t just get to 3/8 plug to drain for winter...
i didnt understand the last line about seeing stuff in garage photos???
where are u at in michigan??????? i boat on st.clair...
Last edited by flashgordon; 09-26-2018 at 06:31 PM. Reason: spelling
09-27-2018, 12:03 PM
#30
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NW Michigan just north of manistee. Kinda off the subject however next time you drain the blocks install 3/8" pipe to 6 AN push loc hose or what ever your preference and loop from side to side over the front of your intake with a quick disconnect or male and felmale and secure it the way you see fit. Makes it really quick and convenient for draining your blocks. I couldn't agree more staggered engines would be awesome. But some of us are stuck with what we have. My 12 meter is close center to center also well as the bulkhead. I've had to wiggle my body out of some pretty tight awkward positions over the years.
