Just bought a 36!
#1
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Just bought a 36!
No motors or drives, pulling all the stuff off my AO to rig it. Should be pretty fast. Pair of 1000's with Imco boxes and Teague drives -2'' lowers and 1:36 gears. I have a lot of cleaning up to do and rewiring but should be good to go by the spring. I'm looking for a cover if anyone knows where I can find one. And would love some pictures of your bilge for ideas. All my boats in the past have been simple basic cats, 28 skater and 31 american offshore. This boat has tons of options and extras so its going to take me a while to figure out the wiring, but its going to be a great winter project.
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OK will do I usually gut every boat a get and start over, but I want to use this one for a season before I start the overhaul. I'm sure you have seen pictures of the boat before. Its orange with flames named Bonecrusher.
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Looking forward to seeing the finished product.
#5
If the boat still has the notched transom I wouldn't add set back boxes. That hull didn't really like have the extra setback. If the notches are filled then add the boxes.
The last few boats I rigged, we started running all the wiring, cables, ect down the sides of the hull, instead of down the middle. The batteries were mounted in the front of the engine compartment on top of the tunnel, and the trim pumps back at the transom. I would try to get a set of trim pump plates like the ones eddie marine sells instead of the stock steel mercury brackets. You will want 17" drive lines if I remember correctly, to get the cg right.
The last few boats I rigged, we started running all the wiring, cables, ect down the sides of the hull, instead of down the middle. The batteries were mounted in the front of the engine compartment on top of the tunnel, and the trim pumps back at the transom. I would try to get a set of trim pump plates like the ones eddie marine sells instead of the stock steel mercury brackets. You will want 17" drive lines if I remember correctly, to get the cg right.
Last edited by obrien; 11-18-2010 at 10:54 PM.
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If the boat still has the notched transom I wouldn't add set back boxes. That hull didn't really like have the extra setback. If the notches are filled then add the boxes.
The last few boats I rigged, we started running all the wiring, cables, ect down the sides of the hull, instead of down the middle. The batteries were mounted in the front of the engine compartment on top of the tunnel, and the trim pumps back at the transom. I would try to get a set of trim pump plates like the ones eddie marine sells instead of the stock steel mercury brackets. You will want 17" drive lines if I remember correctly, to get the cg right.
The last few boats I rigged, we started running all the wiring, cables, ect down the sides of the hull, instead of down the middle. The batteries were mounted in the front of the engine compartment on top of the tunnel, and the trim pumps back at the transom. I would try to get a set of trim pump plates like the ones eddie marine sells instead of the stock steel mercury brackets. You will want 17" drive lines if I remember correctly, to get the cg right.
Mine is rigged with the wiring down the sides like that and the batteries were in the center section. All the trim pumps are in the boat. I'll get some pictures today and put some up. I called down to spectre and the guy on the phone said it wouldn't really hurt anything to put the boxes on, but wouldn't really help either. I just already have them, and would like to install them. Bravo drives just look so tiny on the back of a big boat. Yeah Greg looking forward to it. I still owe you for that boat ride from about 8 years ago.
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The boxes on the notched transom will make the boat porpoise and not the way to go,if the transom is filled in the boxes will work,I rigged that boat originally it ran great 115 with 600hp it has been redone a few times since then,sell the boxes and leave the drives on transom will run better