jayhawk261

I need to cut a large hole in my dash to install trim tab indicators. What is the best type of cutting tool? Sawzall? Cutoff wheel? Also, what do other people use to keep the surface gel from getting roughed up? When I installed my new helm and drilled holes, I put down the blue masking tape. When I drilled, I started with small bits and worked up to the correct size hole. Unfortunately the gel at the edges of the holes still chipped a little. What is the best thing to use to keep this from happening.

Also, the cables have "waterproof" fittings through the hull. I assume I should still seal the holes in the transom anyway. Is silicone good enough, or do I need to use a 2 part epoxy?

Thanks!!

Pat McPherson

It has been a few years since I cut any holes in my dash, but I remember using a jig saw. You will use a few blades they get gummed up and the dash on these boats is built tough. A sawzall is a too rough. Lots of tape will help the edge.
As for through hulls, use 5200 marine sealant, inside and out.
It you don't mind, send me a note or post your cable lengths. I have been thinking about indicators but for a while but never got around to it.

jayhawk261

Thanks MD Mark. I saw the dremel suggestion in the other thread too. I'll buy that or a jig saw today.

Pat, as far as cable lengths, I just got the standard 16' that came with the unit and I planned on coiling the excess under the dash in a large radius coil. I think I'll only have to do that for starboard. The port cable should be pretty close at 16'. Is that a bad idea?

t-islands

If you have a compressor I use a small nematic sawzall, works great. The biggest advantage is it's size, fits in the palm of your hand and takes standard jigsaw blades. When I cut my helm a jigsaw would not fit with the gages in the way. Mine is adjustable speed and power is adjusted by air PSI. About $50. I also use blue tape.

jayhawk261

Yeah, now that I think about it, a jig saw may not work with the space I have on the dash. I have a compressor. I will look at the air recipricating saw. Will they have that at sears, or will I need to get it at Harbor Freight?

krakmeup

Done lots of dash work - the palm sized air reciprocating saw is ideal. The dremels and roto-zips are ok but tend to walk quite bit - they are great to have to clean up or enlarge the first cut to finished size. Coat the fresh cut inner plywood with some sort of sealant, be it epoxy or 5200 (4200 works good too and sets up faster). Use good quality blue masking tape, or if you need to see thru it I've used clear duct tape when I cut my speaker holes. Good luck!

waterboy222

I used a high speed dremel with a really small blade on it.. i basically "etched" the circle I was cutting out.. it didnt harm the edges of the gelcoat, then followed it with a holesaw..

jayhawk261

The air saw was the goods. Cut through it like it wasn't even there! Unfortunately I lost the up solenoid on the starboard tab pump. I had to use my remote starter switch to jump across the solenoid to get it in the up position to get the cables installed. Indicators are installed and work great. Now the starboard tab is screwed! If it isn't one thing, it's something else. It should be an easy fix. Anybody know what type of solenoid is required?

superboat1989

What type indicators did you go with?

How did you make out with cable lenght?

FX10

Either a air powered reciprocating saw or a Roto Zip with a cutting bit.
As far as sealing the cables. I would go with 3m Marine silicome. 5200 is more of an adhesive. Marine silicone is tough stuff