Y2K/Arneson
#31
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Location: Toms River, N,J
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#32
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Those tabs are for bow lift correct. Arneson rocker tabs! Does that drive even turn ? Actually who cares as long as you going fast. I like the horseshoe crab shell covering the prop! If I had that prop I would want to protect it too. Is the shell for protection or to help the boat plain off, kind of a cavitation plate ?
#33
arneson-industries.com
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That is a 32' Sunsation, #7M Drive Unit with the propeller guard on. The propeller guard is in place to protect a person from jumping off the boat and landing upon the propeller.
Safety first.
Arnesons steer right to left, and trim up and down. Unless you install one of my rudder setups and that is a totally different story.
Rocker Plates can give bow lift or bow down.
Safety first.
Arnesons steer right to left, and trim up and down. Unless you install one of my rudder setups and that is a totally different story.
Rocker Plates can give bow lift or bow down.
#36
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I think you want to know if the Bravo to Arneson conversion kit can be bolted up without relocating your engine?
If the engine need to be mounted lower to get the surface drive where it needs to be, then there is surely a lot more to it.
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Patrick
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#37
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Went over this to the tenth power with Coen today. First off ASD claimes their drive approx: 13" over the V
Quote:The ASD6 has a small drop center distance, eliminating the need to mount the engine high in the boat and this in turn helps the balance of the boat. The crankshaft center line is roughly 13" upward from the bottom of the boat depending upon transom angle.
A Bravois approx: 23" CL. Arneson claimes their is 13".
If the Formula is 2.5" below, then it would make the Arneson 10.5" above the bottom, with their claim.
Obviousely they share only the bolt pattern and not the height like they claim.
Quoteeveloped as an Arneson replacement for the *Bravo™ with our own standoff box that allows the engine to remain in the current location. Coupled with a Velvet Drive™ transmission, the Arneson Surface Drive™ couples to the standoff box that houses the transmission, enabling the balance (CG) to stay the same as well as maintain current engine room configuration. This also saves valuable engine room space saving the rear seat area for your use and eliminating any hatch modifications.
re·place·ment /rɪˈpleɪsmənt/ Pronunciation Key - Show Spelled Pronunciation[ri-pleys-muhnt] Pronunciation Key - Show IPA Pronunciation
–noun 1. the act of replacing.
2. a person or thing that replaces another: summer replacements for vacationing staff; a replacement for a broken dish.
3. Military. a sailor, soldier, or airman assigned to fill a vacancy in a military unit.
Gary, whether your notch was there or filled, The ASD6 wouldn't be going there without major modifications ( filling the step. Or in the case of an un-notched bottom. To bring the extension box to the bottom of the vee. The bolt holes wouldn't work and existing holes would be visible.
Last edited by FX10; 07-25-2007 at 07:42 PM.
#38
arneson-industries.com
Offshoreonly Advertiser
First, it is a "Conversion Kit" not an adapter kit.
The bolt patterns are not the same.
My standoff box Covers the Bravo cutout so there is no need to glass the transom. It is larger than the Bravo cutout/bolt pattern so it covers all that up.
Second, your crankshaft centerline is not 23" above the bottom of the boat, in fact it is more than likely around 13-14" inside the boat, hence the same general location as ours. It is a function of transom angle where ours mounts to the boat.
I never said the engine will be in the same vertical height location as the Bravo on all applications, rather referred to the same for/aft location.
Third, as I have made clear more than once, the notch will have to be filled on this application for an Arneson to fit properly. A twin engine application is different but that is not the case here.
For some reason people seem to think the engine will have to be mounted through the bottom of the boat? Hey, maybe I could call that the built in engine oil cooler feature.
13" is 13". You cannot subtract your distance below the bottom of the boat and come up with any logical data. The only thing the depth of a Bravo tells everyone is:
1.) How much speed potential there possibly exist.
2.) How much positive trim is needed to carry the boats bow.
3.) The boats plaining characteristics.
4.) Your engine placement in the boat. The lower the depth the lower the engine is mounted and vice/versa. This is why if you wanted to raise your X dimension you have to raise your engine when using a standard I/O.
I know Cohen is against the Arneson. He has expressed his views more than once on this topic.
I have tried to point out the facts as clearly as I know them.
Notch and Bow lift are the only two areas of concern I have. As Rick affirmed, they have placed an insert into the mold to address the bow lift issue the boat has and it picked up 5 mph.
The bolt patterns are not the same.
My standoff box Covers the Bravo cutout so there is no need to glass the transom. It is larger than the Bravo cutout/bolt pattern so it covers all that up.
Second, your crankshaft centerline is not 23" above the bottom of the boat, in fact it is more than likely around 13-14" inside the boat, hence the same general location as ours. It is a function of transom angle where ours mounts to the boat.
I never said the engine will be in the same vertical height location as the Bravo on all applications, rather referred to the same for/aft location.
Third, as I have made clear more than once, the notch will have to be filled on this application for an Arneson to fit properly. A twin engine application is different but that is not the case here.
For some reason people seem to think the engine will have to be mounted through the bottom of the boat? Hey, maybe I could call that the built in engine oil cooler feature.
13" is 13". You cannot subtract your distance below the bottom of the boat and come up with any logical data. The only thing the depth of a Bravo tells everyone is:
1.) How much speed potential there possibly exist.
2.) How much positive trim is needed to carry the boats bow.
3.) The boats plaining characteristics.
4.) Your engine placement in the boat. The lower the depth the lower the engine is mounted and vice/versa. This is why if you wanted to raise your X dimension you have to raise your engine when using a standard I/O.
I know Cohen is against the Arneson. He has expressed his views more than once on this topic.
I have tried to point out the facts as clearly as I know them.
Notch and Bow lift are the only two areas of concern I have. As Rick affirmed, they have placed an insert into the mold to address the bow lift issue the boat has and it picked up 5 mph.
#39
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OK guys let's do some math:
The Bravo drive is approximately 23" CL to CL.
On Gary's the 30' Super the prop is 4" below.
23-4 is 19", also know as the X dimension...
I'm not quite sure where the 13" for the Arneson comes into play, inside or outside? Also, Rik said the transom angle also matters.
At any rate the engine in Superbabi would need to be relocated vertically. 19" does not equal 13" or even 16" if we are talking inner dimensions.
So back to the notch in Superbabi; there is obviously more to it than "filling the notch," because the engine would need to be lowered somewhere between 3" to 6". I don't believe there is not enought room to do that. If it's 6", you could probably remove the oil cooler on the engine because the oil pan would be through the bottom...
Now Rik, we know JC pretty well and he is a fellow that does not like make work projects. However, Rick has convinced him to take on a few R&D projects in the recent past. Examples include the Turbine boat and the new steps in the 30' Super.
I believe that Rick would love to build a boat with a surface drive as he is always up for a challenge...
Sorry Gary, it does not look good for a surface drive on Superbabi, but maybe Superbabi II...
The Bravo drive is approximately 23" CL to CL.
On Gary's the 30' Super the prop is 4" below.
23-4 is 19", also know as the X dimension...
I'm not quite sure where the 13" for the Arneson comes into play, inside or outside? Also, Rik said the transom angle also matters.
At any rate the engine in Superbabi would need to be relocated vertically. 19" does not equal 13" or even 16" if we are talking inner dimensions.
So back to the notch in Superbabi; there is obviously more to it than "filling the notch," because the engine would need to be lowered somewhere between 3" to 6". I don't believe there is not enought room to do that. If it's 6", you could probably remove the oil cooler on the engine because the oil pan would be through the bottom...
Now Rik, we know JC pretty well and he is a fellow that does not like make work projects. However, Rick has convinced him to take on a few R&D projects in the recent past. Examples include the Turbine boat and the new steps in the 30' Super.
I believe that Rick would love to build a boat with a surface drive as he is always up for a challenge...
Sorry Gary, it does not look good for a surface drive on Superbabi, but maybe Superbabi II...
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Patrick
Patrick
Last edited by Pat McPherson; 07-26-2007 at 08:19 AM.
#40
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When I was building mine, I contacted Arneson and was told the notch would have to be filled. I was also concerned with possible not enough bow lift(less of an issue now). Maneuvaribility was also a concern for me in tight spaces with a single. JC listened to me and said he'd do anything I'd want, just opening up a new can of worms with lots of R&D and prop testing, with my limited boating time my tune changed. I'd love to see someone try though...
RIK...I Absoultely love that Skater...Its one of my screensavers!!!
RIK...I Absoultely love that Skater...Its one of my screensavers!!!
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Gary H...
Gary H...