It Floats!
10-21-2010, 09:10 PM
#31
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ive never seen 5200 crack. 4200 is the same except fast cure. dont know what 4100 is.
here are some pics
the surveyer said they werent bad readings and if i stopped it leaks not it would be fine.
the outside reading were dry
ps the bilge is alot cleaner and has new bilge pump and fuel lines now
here are some pics
the surveyer said they werent bad readings and if i stopped it leaks not it would be fine.
the outside reading were dry
ps the bilge is alot cleaner and has new bilge pump and fuel lines now
I just cant seem to type for sheet anymore,
All I know is that when I was told how to reseal my thru hull fitting for the toilet by the surveyor they told me to us the 4200 instead of the 5200 because it stays flexible and they have seen the 5200 crack.
Does jimmy know everything about boats or what?
Hes like a wealth of wierd boating knowledge
I remember seeing something online about some pads you can put on the hull to pull the moisture out reverse osmosis or some sheet.
Mine was plenty low % too so it wasnt a real concern and in a very small area.
10-21-2010, 11:19 PM
#32
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Jeff thanks for the compliment but its just common knowledge from work. I have been doing restorative structural drying for over 30 years. Here’s a page from my website that I direct my customers to if they have had a small water intrusion.
http://mrkscarpet.com/modules/smarts....php?itemid=23
http://mrkscarpet.com/modules/smarts....php?itemid=23
10-22-2010, 08:55 AM
#33
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No wonder you have so many toys if you can "spin" a water leak that well.LOL
I am clearly in the wrong business
were working our Azzes off and Jimmys over there soaking up water leaks with $100 bills
I am clearly in the wrong business
were working our Azzes off and Jimmys over there soaking up water leaks with $100 bills
10-22-2010, 09:20 AM
#34
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Hey Six, beautiful new boat. If I knew Ken was selling it I may have grabbed it. Great luck with it. I was just reading your thread and decided to put in my 2 cents. First of all pull your main jets ( inside bottom front drains in carb bowels. Use a jet tool - cheap from an Evinrude dealer) and soak them in acetone for a few minutes blow them out and reinstall. If that engine has been sitting & this isn't done you may pop it even if fuel conditioner was used. I would run that set up as is for a while, that V8 may surprise you how well it can push that boat. The moisture meter for the most part seems to be reading under 18% moisture content so the transom should not be rotted. Over 18% for long periods of time would be a problem. Re seal all transom bolts ASAP till the end of the season then remove them and the drain plug assembly and dry out using a dehumidifier as follows. Use a plastic tape over the outside of bolt holes. Place a refrigerant dehumidifier in bilge put a hose on the pan and run it out the drain hole. Plastic tape the hose to the hull so it can't breathe through that point. Then set the dehumidifier to run on constant so that it can achieve bringing the RH down to about 18 to 20%. Tent & seal the dehumidifier in to the back area with 4 mill plastic to create a small dry area and let it run like that for a month. That will dry your transom. I use a desiccant dehumidifier which brings the humidity down to 2% & it dries out in about 10 days. Good luck.
Jim
Jim
There is also what sounds like a hollow spot in the center. Richie told me to just let the through hull fittings dry out for a few weeks, then mix some resin, and rig up something so the resin can be soaked up by the transom. then with the hollow spot. drill a hole towards the top of it and do the same thing.
With the jets, will i have to retune the carbs?
10-22-2010, 05:46 PM
#35
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Sounds good with the resin I would use West System. You will need the dehumidifier or it could take a year to dry out. No tuning on the carbs all 3 circuits are fixed jets and you only need to do the mains, you can run some gum out for mid range & idle and they will clean out as you run it. Dont pull the carbs off and you wont mess up linkage synchronization. Just pull the air box and the mains face you at the bottom of bowels inside the drains. Very easy only takes 10 minutes to do the whole thing.
10-23-2010, 07:35 AM
#37
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edit: i found some for rent.
do you think a single etec 300 or net yamaha 300 would push the boat just as good if not better than the v8?
do you think a single etec 300 or net yamaha 300 would push the boat just as good if not better than the v8?
Last edited by sixmassive; 10-23-2010 at 11:06 AM.
10-23-2010, 04:57 PM
#39
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86 3.6gt with the 28" shaft. I cant make my mind up if i really need twins to push this boat. i would like to stay on the cheaper side of the spectrum and stick with a single 300 but i dont want to strain the motor, and also dont want to look back 6 months down the road and wish i would have gotten twins
Last edited by sixmassive; 10-23-2010 at 05:09 PM.
10-23-2010, 05:52 PM
#40
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Thats a 25" no such thing as a 28" and I doubt its a 30. Is it a 300 or a 275HP. If its a 86 300 I think with some dial in you can get 70 out of it. A new E Tech or a Merc 300XS would give you more grunt out of the hole but might not give you any more up top. Just run it for a few years, get your time out of it & then re rig. I would dial that thing in real good with one engine & piss some people off. Don't know what you have on it for a prop but a 14.5 x 24 Raker might work pretty well for you. Don't put a low water PU nose cone on it. Put a small nose cone on it and close up top 1/2 of your water PUs on side of case and run it as high as you can before losing water pressure. 10 to 12 lbs is OK on that engine its a volume fill block. Set your gearcase up to look like this. This aluminum nose cone is something that Land & Sea sold years ago. I only have a few left and don't want to sell them but there is a guy on Scream and Fly ( JenkSam ) who may be able to come up with one for you. You don't need a blow out ring (that is in rear by bearing carrier) because you will be running a through hub exhaust style prop. The reason you don't want a low water PU nose cone on that boat is because extending the length of case will create too much drag with the depth you will have to run it to push the boat with one prop. You have to get the case almost completely out to overcome the drag and not go slower and with one engine its not happenin on that boat.
Last edited by JamesGang; 10-23-2010 at 05:59 PM.
