Outdrive1

mine returns through the cap. I have a cap with a line in the going into the to of it.

rich allen

LOL

t500hps

OK. The blocking solenoid is working as it should so I have to replace it with a bleeding solenoid. Not real keen on drilling/ tapping a hole in the back of the master cylinder. Already bought a tap/die kit and waiting for the new solenoid to come in from Champion. Thanks for all the advice, I'll update you guys once it's done.

Sydwayz

I have a non-bleeding valve, just a regular valve. I am able to back up the slight uphill incline into my back yard, and everywhere else just fine. I was told the bleeder valve is only needed when you do a lot of mountain/downhill driving.

US1 Fountain

down hill? Sure hope they were not in the trailer brake business.
My trailer will not budge 1" even when empty on flat land with any pressure still in the lines. Back of the truck lifts up. Do you have drum or disc?

t500hps

I can force the trailer to back up when the boat is on there, but with-out the weight of the boat the wheels lock up and bounce.

Sydwayz

I have disc brakes. Triple axle trailer; brakes on the rear two axles. It was explained to me, that the bleeder valve is only needed when you come through the mountains, and the trailer ends up pushing the truck a bit, and riding the brakes when going downhill. I can vouch this does happen, when I brought the boat home through the Applachian Mountains in western PA and WV. Other than that, knock on wood, no issues.

US1 Fountain

Dang, my trailer brakes must be outstanding. Or my truck is powerless.


Brian
So, you are going down hill with the trailer pushing the truck. Only way to activate that solinoid is to put your truck in reverse. Otherwise, it is not doing anything. Sorry, but that's just the way it is. The relieving valve only works when going backwards, unless someone wires it to a seperate driver operated toggle switch, at which point you have NO brakes. Not a condition you want going down hill.

I'm outta here.

Sydwayz

Right, but if you are pulling down a hill, and want to stop, and put your trailer rig in reverse, you are screwed. The only way you can do this is to block the trailer tires, and release the pressure on the surge coupler. Then, engage reverse (lights which engage solenoid) on your truck to lock out the trailer brakes, and back up the hill. That is what was explained to me, that the only reason you would need the bleeder valve. I don't have all the answers, just took that guidance when I was changing from drum to disc on my last trailer. My current trailer is setup the same way.

t500hps

OK. I've recieved the bleeding solenoid, but have to ask another stupid question. The kit comes with a brass fitting that screws into the master cylinder. Unfortunately I don't have a port for this and need to tap one myself. (never done this before but just bought a tap/ die kit)
The directions below say to tap a 1/8 MPT hole....? what is that? The fitting that needs to be inserted takes a 7/16 wrench, and the threads have a 27/inch pattern. From "eyeballing" the taps I have it appears the 3/8 24 matches the closest to what I have. Any suggestions before I screw up???

"IF YOUR MASTER CYLINDER DOES NOT HAVE A RETURN PORT MACHINED INTO THE MASTER CYLINDER RESERVOIR, YOU WILL NED TO DRILL AND TAP A 1/8" MPT HOLE INTO THE LOWER HALF THE REAR OF THE RESERVOIR. BE CAREFUL NOT TO GET METAL SHAVING IN THE MASTER CYLINDER DURING THE MACHINING PROCESS."

Thanks in advance...
Russ C.