Lifting my F350?
#3
Forum Regulator
VIP Member
It depends on how its done. On the whole, I would not recommend the lift.
However, I have been in a few lifted trucks that were lifted the right way, not half-assed, and were MAINTAINED. (You have to consistently check the integrity of the lift, hardware, and brakes.)
First thing to do is make sure you have EXCELLENT trailer brakes. Electric/Hydraulic trailer brakes should be your FIRST investment. Your surge brakes only work when the truck and trailer are directly in a straight line, and with the added lift of your truck, your trailer can push you all over the place.
Second attention should be the hitch. At a bare minimum, upgrade your hitch to the Putnam or Reese TRUE Class-V hitch. Trash the factory Ford POS that says "V-5" to fool you that your factory Class-III hitch is stronger than it is.
Third attention needs to be paid to your hitch DRAWBAR. This will be your weekest link. You need the strongest, ugliest, SOLID STEEL drawbar you can find. Some of the West Coast Lift shops make these a little prettier. You will want something rated for at least 15K lbs. even though your towed load is around 10K lbs.
THEN, you need to think about your lift and wheels and tires. Wider wheels and wider tires are better, and more WHEEL and less tire is going to give you more stability. You DEFINITELY want Load-Range-E tires. Don't even think about skimping here. ALSO, make sure you go with SS braided brake lines. You are also going to want a Rear Air-Bag Suspension helper system from Firestone or Air-Lift.
I would suggest talking to Buck183 or OutlawMark here on OSO. (You will need to become a paying member to send them a PM.) Buck is in the midwest, and Mark is in Virginia. While neither of them may be close to you, they are both experienced truck modifiers and they know what it takes to tow the right way. They can recommend the best lift for your application. You get what you pay for.
However, I have been in a few lifted trucks that were lifted the right way, not half-assed, and were MAINTAINED. (You have to consistently check the integrity of the lift, hardware, and brakes.)
First thing to do is make sure you have EXCELLENT trailer brakes. Electric/Hydraulic trailer brakes should be your FIRST investment. Your surge brakes only work when the truck and trailer are directly in a straight line, and with the added lift of your truck, your trailer can push you all over the place.
Second attention should be the hitch. At a bare minimum, upgrade your hitch to the Putnam or Reese TRUE Class-V hitch. Trash the factory Ford POS that says "V-5" to fool you that your factory Class-III hitch is stronger than it is.
Third attention needs to be paid to your hitch DRAWBAR. This will be your weekest link. You need the strongest, ugliest, SOLID STEEL drawbar you can find. Some of the West Coast Lift shops make these a little prettier. You will want something rated for at least 15K lbs. even though your towed load is around 10K lbs.
THEN, you need to think about your lift and wheels and tires. Wider wheels and wider tires are better, and more WHEEL and less tire is going to give you more stability. You DEFINITELY want Load-Range-E tires. Don't even think about skimping here. ALSO, make sure you go with SS braided brake lines. You are also going to want a Rear Air-Bag Suspension helper system from Firestone or Air-Lift.
I would suggest talking to Buck183 or OutlawMark here on OSO. (You will need to become a paying member to send them a PM.) Buck is in the midwest, and Mark is in Virginia. While neither of them may be close to you, they are both experienced truck modifiers and they know what it takes to tow the right way. They can recommend the best lift for your application. You get what you pay for.
#5
Registered User
Physics just isn't on your side. Raising the center of gravity has an exponential effect on suspension dynamics. An upward shift in the polar moment of inertia would have to be compensated for by substantial increases in spring weights and shock absorber damping. That's why Internationals and Freightliners don't ride like F350's and why semi's don't ride like MCI buses. All engineering is a compromise.
We haven't even touched on the subject of gearing changes and the effect that larger tires has on brakes. Plus, many insurer's have specifications in their policies excluding vehicles. Even if your insurer does sign off on a lift, in the event of an accident that would present high-dollar exposure, you can rest assured they'll deny the claim and make you fight them- and you'd most likely lose- no engineer will ever sign off on the modifications. Even if you could afford the engineering analysis on the modification and its impact on your towing capability, you'd probably not see results favorable to you.
If you HAVE to do it and you're willing to accept the potential liability, Sydwayz is right.
We haven't even touched on the subject of gearing changes and the effect that larger tires has on brakes. Plus, many insurer's have specifications in their policies excluding vehicles. Even if your insurer does sign off on a lift, in the event of an accident that would present high-dollar exposure, you can rest assured they'll deny the claim and make you fight them- and you'd most likely lose- no engineer will ever sign off on the modifications. Even if you could afford the engineering analysis on the modification and its impact on your towing capability, you'd probably not see results favorable to you.
If you HAVE to do it and you're willing to accept the potential liability, Sydwayz is right.
#6
Platinum Member
Platinum Member
Physics just isn't on your side. Raising the center of gravity has an exponential effect on suspension dynamics. An upward shift in the polar moment of inertia would have to be compensated for by substantial increases in spring weights and shock absorber damping. That's why Internationals and Freightliners don't ride like F350's and why semi's don't ride like MCI buses. All engineering is a compromise.
We haven't even touched on the subject of gearing changes and the effect that larger tires has on brakes. Plus, many insurer's have specifications in their policies excluding vehicles. Even if your insurer does sign off on a lift, in the event of an accident that would present high-dollar exposure, you can rest assured they'll deny the claim and make you fight them- and you'd most likely lose- no engineer will ever sign off on the modifications. Even if you could afford the engineering analysis on the modification and its impact on your towing capability, you'd probably not see results favorable to you.
If you HAVE to do it and you're willing to accept the potential liability, Sydwayz is right.
We haven't even touched on the subject of gearing changes and the effect that larger tires has on brakes. Plus, many insurer's have specifications in their policies excluding vehicles. Even if your insurer does sign off on a lift, in the event of an accident that would present high-dollar exposure, you can rest assured they'll deny the claim and make you fight them- and you'd most likely lose- no engineer will ever sign off on the modifications. Even if you could afford the engineering analysis on the modification and its impact on your towing capability, you'd probably not see results favorable to you.
If you HAVE to do it and you're willing to accept the potential liability, Sydwayz is right.
#7
Registered
When I had my 01 F250 I had installed a Fabtech 5.5" kit on it. I didn't notice any adverse towing problems at all. Actually the truck rode better with the lift kit and the BFG AT's than when it was stock. I towed just about everything with that truck.
Last edited by Playn; 09-26-2007 at 07:02 PM.
#9
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Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: New Port Richey,FL
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You will have no problem towing with a 4" lift & 35" tires.You will need a 2" billet spacer betewwen the rear tires to keep them from rubbing.I have a 02 F350 srw with 6" lift & 35" tires
on 20" wheels & tow a 37 Active Thunder.Our company truck is a 2000 350 dually with 4" lift & 35" tires,He tows a 37 Outer Limits. Neither of us have had any issue from the truck being
lifted.If you have any questions e-mail me at [email protected] OR Call Outlaw Motorsports
540-829-0300
Mark
on 20" wheels & tow a 37 Active Thunder.Our company truck is a 2000 350 dually with 4" lift & 35" tires,He tows a 37 Outer Limits. Neither of us have had any issue from the truck being
lifted.If you have any questions e-mail me at [email protected] OR Call Outlaw Motorsports
540-829-0300
Mark
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