US1 Fountain

Any downsides other than only being to tow only with an electric equiped truck? Battery life, pump reliabilty, delayed activation????

Stopping in rain, braking while backing down the ramp, no trailer brakes drag going down hills, and n more coupler clunks. Sounds great!

My trailer has HD axles, tandem, leaf spring, dics brakes, with very low miles. Towing loaded is fine, but unloaded is a BIOTCH!
Every time I come to a stop, the trailer jumps up and down, shaking the truck violently so much I'm afraid it's going to snap something off. Does it at both highway speeds stopping, or city stop and go speeds. I can see the couple slaming forward, then back out, back in, back out... repeatedly till at a full stop. System has been bled so many times it bleds red. Coupler rebuilt, new coupler shocks, new reversing solenoid.... everything has been addressed.

So the elecric setup might be the fix. I assume because of the abilty to have a light and heavy load setting, which I think is my problem.

Thanks

bgchuby01

The only other thing you can do if you want to spend money is build a cheap $5.00 metal spacer for the slide of the trailer hitch so that when it is empty it can't slide and bring the trailer brakes on. That is what most marinas use to back up a trailer in the yard so that the brakes stay off. Or put a ball valve in the brake line before it y's off to both sides and turn it off when the trailer is empty. This is the cheap route and do not do it if the boat is on the trailer unless you are just backing up. The ball valve is good going down a long hill to keep the brakes from smoking down the hill but you must start at the top slowly so that you don't overuse the trucks brakes

fountainemp

as a trailer mechanic i perfer electric over hyd. you can buy a pump from redneck trailer supply. a carlise box is around 500 and a brake rite is close to a grand. weld the surge brakes solid and wire in the pump.

Dock Holiday

I just bought a new Myco with Electric over Hydraulic. I put brakes on all three axles and they use the BrakeRite II unit.

Then I added a Tekonsha P3 controller.

WOW I really have too much brake power. The P3 allows you to set three different boost levels that are activated as soon as you tap the brake and it will stop the truck in a big hurry.

I have to turn it off completely if the boat is off the trailer or the wheels will lock up and the trailer goes sideways at the lowest setting..

Myco is useing a ceramic brake pad that is very agressive and adds to the agressive brake feel I have.

There is ZERO delay and I also have brakes in reverse.

I'm still getting use to it but the braking is so far superior to surge brakes that it is not funny.

US1 Fountain

What about different stopping forces? Say you set the controller for 1 of the 3 amount of braking pressure. Does that same setting take effect regardless if you are slowing to a stop or slaming the brakes hard for an emergency? If set to high, seems like the trailer will be jerking the truck everytime the brakes are applied. And if set to light and a panic situation arises, the trailer will just push/coast you right on thru. Or is it possible the pump can vary the output depending on the input signal from the controller?

rbtnt

I put a switch and led on my dash to activate the backup solenoid so I can turn off the brakes when the trailer is empty. The led is on when the solenoid is activated by the switch or when I'm in reverse.

Tony Montana

My P3 controller (and I would think they all work like this) varies the voltage depending on how hard you press the brake pedal. It takes 12 volts to apply full brake power. So if I push very light on the pedal it may only give 3-5 volts. Pretty much works just like your truck brakes would react