Surge -> EOH Conversion
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As I plan to do some distance towing, hilly terrain, looking into converting triaxle (Pacific Boat Trailer G27TR16-14) from surge disk to EOH. This forum has been a great resource. Leaning toward the BrakeRite EOH with MaxBrake controller. Has anyone done this conversion as DIY? Suggestions?
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Your biggest decision is what to do with the coupler. Some folks go simple and just weld or bold the surge coupler solid. That just doesn't seem right to me.
Check out http://www.championtrailers.com/ or http://www.redneck-trailer.com/ or any of the other trailer parts houses on the web to find a solid coupler that will bold on in place of what you have. It's never a bad idea to go with a new coupler. I have a 2005 Myco and bought a whole new coupler from them which installed in about 5 minutes and my setup is tighter than it ever was.
Make sure you mount the whole EoH setup HIGH and FORWARD so as not to get wet; including the battery, (but keep in mind you want to be able to lower your tailgate on the truck). Make sure you mount the break-away switch in a non-precarious position, (i.e. NOT on bottom of trailer). Some trucks have empty fuse blocks from the factory waiting for you to install fuses to provide full power to the brake harness & trailer plug.
I have several posts on here and Serious0ffshore.c0m about MaxBrake. The system is awesome and quite simple to install; albeit it's a little finicky to get the plumbing right.
Check out http://www.championtrailers.com/ or http://www.redneck-trailer.com/ or any of the other trailer parts houses on the web to find a solid coupler that will bold on in place of what you have. It's never a bad idea to go with a new coupler. I have a 2005 Myco and bought a whole new coupler from them which installed in about 5 minutes and my setup is tighter than it ever was.
Make sure you mount the whole EoH setup HIGH and FORWARD so as not to get wet; including the battery, (but keep in mind you want to be able to lower your tailgate on the truck). Make sure you mount the break-away switch in a non-precarious position, (i.e. NOT on bottom of trailer). Some trucks have empty fuse blocks from the factory waiting for you to install fuses to provide full power to the brake harness & trailer plug.
I have several posts on here and Serious0ffshore.c0m about MaxBrake. The system is awesome and quite simple to install; albeit it's a little finicky to get the plumbing right.
#3
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I did the exact same thing last yr using the Brakerite and Maxbrake controller on my Eagle disc brake trailer. Best thig ever! I gutted the coupler and had it welded solid.
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Some people are like Slinkies - Not really good for anything, but they
bring a smile to your face when pushed down the stairs.
Some people are like Slinkies - Not really good for anything, but they
bring a smile to your face when pushed down the stairs.
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Brian - thx for input, I'll check those sites. I do have about 20yrs of welding experience, but a coupler replacement might be more prudent for my 12K load.
I assume the master cylinder is inside the coupler housing and the corresponding hydraulic line would be the one used for connecting to the BrakeRite?
![](http://www.geocities.com/runnernest/Boat/coupler.jpg)
Last edited by 70runner; 08-09-2009 at 01:28 PM.
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It's really an easy job to convert. Looks like yours is galvanized. Not sure I'd mess with welding it, plus the bolt on solid coupler would look cleaner by removing the all of the surge coupler unit above the frame.
Yes, the hyd line going to your M/C will now go to the BrakeRite power unit.
Yes, the hyd line going to your M/C will now go to the BrakeRite power unit.
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Some people are like Slinkies - Not really good for anything, but they
bring a smile to your face when pushed down the stairs.
Some people are like Slinkies - Not really good for anything, but they
bring a smile to your face when pushed down the stairs.
Last edited by US1 Fountain; 08-09-2009 at 10:13 PM. Reason: Pic didn't show up earlier
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I did this to a 07 myco tri axle disk had no problem only bleed the EOH unit because there was no air at the brakes. As far as the coupler just pulled it all the way out and drilled 1/2" hole and put a bolt in it. The brakes work great. Now you can back up the trailer again.