Drive guard on a trailer
#2
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If the space you store in is tight lengthwise, the drive guard could potentially put you over the length of space available. If you are stored/parked in a tight space, you may not be able to swing the gate open to do service or whatever. Other than that, I am really happy that I went with the drive guard.
#3
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Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: North East, MD
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Watch out for gate swing in tight places. Depending on the terrain that you park the trailer on, you could rub the bottom of the trailer guards on uneven terrain. That happens to me when I put the boat on the side of my house.
#5
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That's my trailer right after Ron completed it. 6 years with zero problems. I would suggest you get electric over hydraulic not surge. Might be good to tell him your just as fussy as the guy w/ the 34 Saber also. I would put my trailer up against anybody's, no problem. Manning has come a long way since he built his first aluminum trailer.
Last edited by BGIII; 08-27-2010 at 03:22 PM.
#6
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Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Rockwood MI. Kalkaska MI. Sopron Hungary.
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Hey, glad to meet you, he is doing electric over hydraulic and all the bells and whistles, I used yours as an example of what i wanted, also added backup lights and electric longue jack, they are starting to build mine monday. Will tell him i met you as well. Thanks Laszlo
How do you like the drive guard ? any suggestions to modify or change on the trailer ?
How do you like the drive guard ? any suggestions to modify or change on the trailer ?
#7
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I sat down w/ Ron and we wrote out a list of everything I wanted and what my expectations were. He did everything I asked. Only issue I had was that the boat didn't fit the bunks very well when the trailer was first completed, but Ron was excellent in correcting that situation.
I would recommend having him drill a drain hole on the inside bottom of the steel post that has the adjustable bow stop before he welds everything in place and paints it. My post would fill with water which could cause problems if you cold store up here in the great white north and it happens to freeze full of water. I'll attach a very poorly edited picture so you know what I'm talking about. Look for the black arrow.
I am a very happy customer, 6 years with no problems and the trailer looks like the day I picked it up. I would never buy a steel trailer again and I would not hesitate to have Manning Marine build me another trailer in the future.
Anything else that you want to discuss, shoot me a PM w/ your phone number and I'll give you a ring.
Bill
I would recommend having him drill a drain hole on the inside bottom of the steel post that has the adjustable bow stop before he welds everything in place and paints it. My post would fill with water which could cause problems if you cold store up here in the great white north and it happens to freeze full of water. I'll attach a very poorly edited picture so you know what I'm talking about. Look for the black arrow.
I am a very happy customer, 6 years with no problems and the trailer looks like the day I picked it up. I would never buy a steel trailer again and I would not hesitate to have Manning Marine build me another trailer in the future.
Anything else that you want to discuss, shoot me a PM w/ your phone number and I'll give you a ring.
Bill
#8
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Laszlo, You may want to have Ron set-up your bow stop "below" your bow eye. Mine bow eye presently is about in the middle of the bow stop and when my boat "floats" off the trailer the bow drops and rubs the first chine below the rubrail which is where my paint starts on my boat. I've had some damage to the painted area so I'm going to lower the stop between the 2nd and 3rd chine. I wish I would of had him do a power tongue jack on mine, but he talked me out of it. Let me know how yours works out, I've got to have him add one. By the way, I have a 33' AT, so if you have the paint starting there, you'll want to look into that. Steve
#9
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Location: Rockwood MI. Kalkaska MI. Sopron Hungary.
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Laszlo, You may want to have Ron set-up your bow stop "below" your bow eye. Mine bow eye presently is about in the middle of the bow stop and when my boat "floats" off the trailer the bow drops and rubs the first chine below the rubrail which is where my paint starts on my boat. I've had some damage to the painted area so I'm going to lower the stop between the 2nd and 3rd chine. I wish I would of had him do a power tongue jack on mine, but he talked me out of it. Let me know how yours works out, I've got to have him add one. By the way, I have a 33' AT, so if you have the paint starting there, you'll want to look into that. Steve
#10
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You may want to make the drive guard removable.
Reason, going up a ramp into a facility that is at loading dock height would be nearly impossible.
Reason, going up a ramp into a facility that is at loading dock height would be nearly impossible.