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Upgrade to E/H or not?

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Old 09-14-2012, 12:17 PM
  #11  
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Will do - I'm running disc brakes. Thanks again!
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Old 09-16-2012, 09:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Rufnek100
Think I'm sold - $1000 on its face isn't chump change, but then again that's a good weekend in gas, isn't it?!? Titan sells the adapter to run with the newer Ford & Chevy trucks (looking at the EHB system), so as long as I get my install done properly that's the way to go. Sorry you had issues wrink and I'll cross my fingers my conversion goes smoothly. I think it would be worth $1000 to get rid of the clunk!

Thanks again for the insight - I knew E/H were definitely superior to surge, but was torn on the upgrade due to the fact that the boat lives on the lift most of the time and could I justify it for towing 2-3X / year.
I changed my 2010 MYCO trailer over to EOH last year. My boat and trailer weights more than my tow vehicle. I hated the Surge brakes. With a Tekonsha P3 controller you can set up the system based on your load and the type of roads. Nothing like getting pushed down a hill to help you see the value of a proper EOH set up. To be clear, my boat and trailer weighs 7000 lbs and is pulled by a GL350 Diesel with a Towing capacity of 7500lbs. I'm very pleased to have made the switch to EOH.

Fearless010 (Peter)
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Old 10-27-2012, 05:36 PM
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Okay, update on the project: I finally got all my parts in and installed. I also took the time to install a junction box and properly wire in a new 7 blade connector. Goodbye crappy 4 way flat connector and adapter!

So I decide to use a fit for purpose brake hose (with male and female fittings) instead of hard line from the E/H actuator back to the union for the main brake line, but I get a leak that I can't get stopped where the main line (male) fits into the hose end (female). I even rounded off the pipe nut trying to tighten it to no avail.

So the solution to that problem was to go back with a steel line from the actuator to the brake line, but in the process I cut off the flare on the main brake line (the 30' line that goes back to the axles) to replace the pipe nut I buggered up. Now I can't re flare that end - it's stainless steel and the flare tool die wont grip the line tight enough to start the flare - it just pushes the line out of the tool when I tighten it up.

Thoughts or suggestions at this point? Wrink, maybe you can chime in since you may have had a similar issue?
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