Hi-Tech trailer bunks vs Myco / Eagle style bunks
#1
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Hi-Tech trailer bunks vs Myco / Eagle style bunks
The rear bunks on the Hi-Tech I'm looking at are 2x10s mounted vertical with only 2 bunks ( 1 port & 1 starboard) supporting along the chine at the back of a Fountain. The other Myco and Eagle trailers have 2x4s mounted horizontal with 4 sets supporting the chine and bottom V at the back. My question is, do the narrow Hi-Tech bunks provide enough support over long term storage vs the Myco/Eagle wider type design? Does it matter which type is used? Any information on pros & cons of Hi-Tech would be appreciated.
#2
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Location: Greenbrier , Arkansas
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i had a boat on a trailer with only 2 bunks for a year . always had a hard time getting it on the trailer . i now have a trailer with 4 bunks and have no problem getting it on trailer . maybe it was just me or maybe it was just the crappy trailer . i know that doesnt really answer your question , im just throwing that out there because i have no clue what you have now or have had in the past .
#3
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If you have the option to start from scratch, the "cradle" type of trailer/bunk setup is much better all around. Loading, storage, transport etc. etc. The cradle type of trailer will also have the boat sitting lower to the ground by as much as 8-10".
If you have a trailer that you only use for trips to the mechanic and winter storage, a bunk type trailer is adequate.
I've put the exact same hull on probably 20 different trailers of all types; steel, aluminum; bunk and cradle. The cradle is better. Bunk trailers are often a royal PITA to load; but if you work out a system of how deep to set the trailer at the ramp, and some like to use guide-on poles at the aft of the trailer; they can work just fine.
If you have a trailer that you only use for trips to the mechanic and winter storage, a bunk type trailer is adequate.
I've put the exact same hull on probably 20 different trailers of all types; steel, aluminum; bunk and cradle. The cradle is better. Bunk trailers are often a royal PITA to load; but if you work out a system of how deep to set the trailer at the ramp, and some like to use guide-on poles at the aft of the trailer; they can work just fine.
#4
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My HITECH has the front bunks. I'd recommend adding them just for ease of loading
That being said there are a lot of go fast boats that sit on lifts just supported by the two rearward beams
That being said there are a lot of go fast boats that sit on lifts just supported by the two rearward beams
#5
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My current boat sits on an eagle with 4 (2x4) bunks at the back & front (keel) bunks. Its a great trailer and easy to load. However I am looking at a new (to me) Fountain Lightning that comes on a Hi-Tech. For clarification the Hi-Tech also has a set of (2x4) bunks which support the front of the hull / keel. I trailer consistently in the summer and want good support for the Fountain. It just appears the Hi-Tech doesn't offer the same support to the bottom hull with the chine sitting on the 2" wide bunk. Does it even matter, or would I be better off replacing it with a myco/eagle style trailer.
#6
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The key to good loading, and in my opinion good boat support, is to have solid support at the keel. Here is our Loadmaster trailer that we bought used and then reworked to our liking. It came with just the two outboard cypress bunks. We replaced those with new and then added the keel support. I like the full length support but if you are just looking to make it easy to get the boat on the trailer and well aligned then just guide bunks at the bow and down at the keel will be sufficent. In our case I am depending on the keel supports to carry the load and outer bunks to basically just balance and stabilize the boat.
On a side note has anyone used the newer plastic covering for the bunks instead of carpet? That might make loading really easy! That might make loading too easy?
Dan
[ATTACH=CONFIG]504464[/ATTACH]
On a side note has anyone used the newer plastic covering for the bunks instead of carpet? That might make loading really easy! That might make loading too easy?
Dan
[ATTACH=CONFIG]504464[/ATTACH]
#7
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As I understand it, most boat's lifting strakes are lined up with the stringers, and are therefore some of the best (for the integrity of the hull) places to put trailer bunks. So, the cheapie alum trailers with 4x10 vertical bunks may not be as bad as they look. In fact, MYCO used to use flat bunks that lined up to the flat lifting strake. But, they are hard to load the boat on. So, now high end trailer companies make a V shaped cradle to nest the boat on for ease of loading, and I hope they still aim for the strong parts of the boat. It may also be that today's boats don't require as accurate a bunk placement as they used to.
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I was just getting ready to post the same question. I have an aluminum loadmaster trailer with the 2 vertical 2x10 bunks and it is a b***h to load the boat if the trailer in not in the exact amount of water to keep the a$$ end from floating from side to side. I've had to get the boat on as best I could have the driver pull out and make sure we are sitting straight and level and if not back back in and hope she straightens up.
BajaDan by the looks of the pic you posted I have the exact same trailer as you. How much did that help as far as loading? What did you use for supports for the 2X4's? I'm assuming you took all of the measurements for height of boards with the boat on the trailer and removed it to place them?
BajaDan by the looks of the pic you posted I have the exact same trailer as you. How much did that help as far as loading? What did you use for supports for the 2X4's? I'm assuming you took all of the measurements for height of boards with the boat on the trailer and removed it to place them?
#9
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Hi JWay,
I used 2x6's for the keel supports and mounted them with off the shelf (Tie Down Engineering) brackets similar to these.
http://www.etrailer.com/Boat-Trailer...E10000G-4.html
I will also put in a plug for etrailer.com as I have had very good service from them.
As far as trailer setup went I had the new Cypress bunks cut at the deadrise angle (24 degrees). I then made a template out of plywood that also reflected the 24 degree deadrise. Using the template it was a simple matter to adjust all the bunks to the correct height. The boat fit perfectly with just a little adjusting of the bow roller (bow stop) to get the position correct. I think I still have that template and if so I will take a picture of it and show you.
The center (keel) bunks make all the difference in the world when loading your boat. Cross wind, current, angled entry, all are no problem. If the boat is not sitting level then you had the trailer too deep. That is really the only thing you can mess up when loading, the boat is entirely self centering.
Good luck.
Dan
I used 2x6's for the keel supports and mounted them with off the shelf (Tie Down Engineering) brackets similar to these.
http://www.etrailer.com/Boat-Trailer...E10000G-4.html
I will also put in a plug for etrailer.com as I have had very good service from them.
As far as trailer setup went I had the new Cypress bunks cut at the deadrise angle (24 degrees). I then made a template out of plywood that also reflected the 24 degree deadrise. Using the template it was a simple matter to adjust all the bunks to the correct height. The boat fit perfectly with just a little adjusting of the bow roller (bow stop) to get the position correct. I think I still have that template and if so I will take a picture of it and show you.
The center (keel) bunks make all the difference in the world when loading your boat. Cross wind, current, angled entry, all are no problem. If the boat is not sitting level then you had the trailer too deep. That is really the only thing you can mess up when loading, the boat is entirely self centering.
Good luck.
Dan