MarkDonzi

Hi Guys,

I have a 2013 Performance trailer equipped with a Titan electric over hydraulic brake system. I pull my boat with a 2013 Ford F350 with stock factory brake controller set to Electric over Hydraulic in the truck.

I was recently pulling the boat and the brakes applied on their own and would not release. The hydraulic unit on the trailer was buzzing constantly as if I was applying the brakes. I disconnected the trailer plug from the truck and reconnected and buzzing stops until I apply the brakes then they lock up again. To continue my haul I cut the blue wire to shut down the brakes and keep my running lights together.

I think this may be a problem with the signal coming from the truck and was hoping someone has had this experience. This trailer is new to me.

Any recommendations would be appreciated.

endeavor1

This is what I put on my Myco for my 11' 250 and 11' 3500. States up to 12' model year however I'd call and check which converter you need.

http://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-.../T4846000.html

MarkDonzi

According to TItan, 2013 truck doesn't require a converter

Thx for your reply!

jbraun2828

I would look for a short somewhere. Eoh brakes are great but there's a lot of wires and can be hard to track down problems. Also, not a lot of shops that can fix them or install them right. One thing with your truck, check your trailer brake fuse to make sure it's good. I think there's a couple of them.

ALL_IN!

I would suggest using a test light (or DVOM) on the truck side of the plug. Check for voltage with key off, key on, engine running, then brake application - volts should go up then to 0. All other situations should be 0 volts. How many volts will depend on the voltage ramp of the brake controller (if yours has a manual lever, you can use that and push to full on - 12 volts). If the light stays on (or voltage remains high) after releasing the brake pedal or lever, then you have a truck side problem (controller issue, short to ground, etc). If not, you may have a relay that is sticking in the Titan unit. Or a partial short to ground which only exposes itself intermittently.

Good luck - and let us know what you find.

502ss

I had the same problem with my 07 Avalanche. It was an aftermarket brake controller but it turned out to be a faulty brake pedal switch. I replaced the switch and it was fine. What's weird was while I was diagnosing the issue the pedal switch was bleeding just enough voltage to trigger the trailer brakes but not enough to light the brake light bulbs meaning when I would press the brakes the brake lights and EOH would come on and when I lifted the pedal the lights would go out but not the EOH.

offshoredrillin

I had the same problem. Check your emergency pull off, its only a couple bucks. If the pump is under power constantly then more thqn likely the computer is shot. As soon as you power it up if it comes on the comp has gotten wet and shorted out. Its about 250 bucks for a replacement comp. I got mine from eastern trailer supply. Any other questions pm me. Mine did a 6 wheel lock up at 50 mph.