Well that was fun... sheared the lugs off the drum.
07-14-2019, 08:16 PM
#11
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I always use anti sieze on the boat trailer studs and never had a problem with the losing up. I do use a torque wrench installing.
07-15-2019, 06:39 AM
#12
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Learned may years ago:
1- use a torque wrench
2- clean rust off area where wheel rests on drum/rotor because once rust wears off wheel then is loose!
3- not just trailers but all vehicles
1- use a torque wrench
2- clean rust off area where wheel rests on drum/rotor because once rust wears off wheel then is loose!
3- not just trailers but all vehicles
07-15-2019, 08:30 AM
#13
Forum Regulator
VIP Member
THAT was your problem. WD40 is barely a lubricant, it's water based so that didn't help you much at all. They still heated up. You can't use lug nuts to "clean up threads", as it will destroy both the lug nuts and the studs. They may have held, but you weakened the threads on both of them. You need to use a proper thread restoring tool. And lug nuts are expendable items. Any issue that you can't quickly clean up with a thread restorer, pitch the lug nut. It's better to pitch a lug nut than destroy a stud, or even worse.
07-15-2019, 10:52 AM
#14
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Thread Starter
“BUT ITS JUST A TRAILER!” - me, in a moment of dumbness.
I’ve been very careful about grease, torque settings on the hub, etc, but figured just running them down even with the impact was close enough like your typical garage monkey, but nope.
Many amateur hacks led up to a wheel passing me by on the highway, and I’m very thankful it wasn’t worse. Thanks for all of the input, and hopefully someone else learns from my mistakes.
I’ve been very careful about grease, torque settings on the hub, etc, but figured just running them down even with the impact was close enough like your typical garage monkey, but nope.
Many amateur hacks led up to a wheel passing me by on the highway, and I’m very thankful it wasn’t worse. Thanks for all of the input, and hopefully someone else learns from my mistakes.
07-16-2019, 11:24 AM
#15
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Thread Starter
I checked all of the other lug nuts and they were all 80-85lbs. A little snug but not catastrophic. My lesson here is only clean dry treads and check often. It seems that with steel wheels there’s very little nut/seat contact, so if they loosen a smidge it doesn’t take much before all hell breaks loose.
07-16-2019, 12:22 PM
#16
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I'm a retired auto mechanic and have literally installed thousands of wheels using just an impact wrench and never had one come loose or break off the studs (that I know of!).
07-17-2019, 09:24 PM
#17
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They didn't replace the old lug nuts did they? There are 2 different types. Conical or cone and radiused or “ball” style . They don't look drastically different however they don't play well with each other at all.
I've also never used a torque wrench for lug nuts and always use anti-seize. Then again, I've had the same Blue Point 1/2" impact for 40 years so we've developed an understanding.
I've also never used a torque wrench for lug nuts and always use anti-seize. Then again, I've had the same Blue Point 1/2" impact for 40 years so we've developed an understanding.
Last edited by zz28zz; 07-18-2019 at 12:22 AM.
07-18-2019, 09:42 AM
#18
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Thread Starter
They didn't replace the old lug nuts did they? There are 2 different types. Conical or cone and radiused or “ball” style . They don't look drastically different however they don't play well with each other at all.
I've also never used a torque wrench for lug nuts and always use anti-seize. Then again, I've had the same Blue Point 1/2" impact for 40 years so we've developed an understanding.
I've also never used a torque wrench for lug nuts and always use anti-seize. Then again, I've had the same Blue Point 1/2" impact for 40 years so we've developed an understanding.
07-18-2019, 11:19 PM
#19
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Since they have been working for 5 years, that's probably not the issue.
Yours are probably conical. Couldn't tell for sure from the pic. You can tell by looking at the area of the wheel where the nut seats. Conical is a straight 60 deg taper (like a funnel). The ball type is scooped out so a ball shape would fit and make maximum contact.
Yours are probably conical. Couldn't tell for sure from the pic. You can tell by looking at the area of the wheel where the nut seats. Conical is a straight 60 deg taper (like a funnel). The ball type is scooped out so a ball shape would fit and make maximum contact.
08-14-2019, 01:42 PM
#20
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Thread Starter
Had to share an unusual experience. I went into a Carquest store for a battery tender and asked if they have wheel studs for a trailer drum. He actually pulled out a huge book and looked them up and five minutes later I had the perfect studs. No questions about make or model. The dude actually sorted it out like the good ol’ days. Shocked.
Put it in the new studs with a new wheel and after a couple hundred miles no issues.
Put it in the new studs with a new wheel and after a couple hundred miles no issues.
