Surge Brakes to EOH Conversion
06-04-2024, 12:28 PM
#51
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Not trying to hijack the thread, but a lot of good information is in here.
I want to do this for my trailer. I have surge brakes today, its a brand new trailer. I feel like the brakes get really hot and you can smell them anytime I stop when trailering the boat. Not sure if this is normal for trailers in general, or if my surge brakes are possibly slightly engaged when towing. I feel like this could be something that resolves this issue for me if its even an issue.
I want to do this for my trailer. I have surge brakes today, its a brand new trailer. I feel like the brakes get really hot and you can smell them anytime I stop when trailering the boat. Not sure if this is normal for trailers in general, or if my surge brakes are possibly slightly engaged when towing. I feel like this could be something that resolves this issue for me if its even an issue.
06-04-2024, 01:06 PM
#52
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Hydrastar® MARINE Surge Brake Conversion System to Electric Over Hydraulic (EOH) Brake Actuator
Doesn't look like it. Maybe they got the "Just makes it easier" resolved. Don't know. Tech on the phone said I'd be OK.
Thanks. Brad.
06-04-2024, 01:28 PM
#53
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VIP MemberThread Starter
Not trying to hijack the thread, but a lot of good information is in here.
I want to do this for my trailer. I have surge brakes today, its a brand new trailer. I feel like the brakes get really hot and you can smell them anytime I stop when trailering the boat. Not sure if this is normal for trailers in general, or if my surge brakes are possibly slightly engaged when towing. I feel like this could be something that resolves this issue for me if its even an issue.
I want to do this for my trailer. I have surge brakes today, its a brand new trailer. I feel like the brakes get really hot and you can smell them anytime I stop when trailering the boat. Not sure if this is normal for trailers in general, or if my surge brakes are possibly slightly engaged when towing. I feel like this could be something that resolves this issue for me if its even an issue.
Could be a slight maladjustment from the initial build. It could also be that your sliding couple isn't fully retracting for whatever reason. Just stabbing in the dark, here. Hard to say EOH would fix the former. Obviously, the latter is eliminated with EOH. I'm definitely not a brake guy, but that doesn't sound normal to me. I've never had this issue on any surge brake trailer I've had experience with.
Thanks. Brad.
06-04-2024, 03:26 PM
#54
Registered
Brad,
This is the one I bought, plug and play.
https://hydrastarusa.com/product/hyd...-n-play-w-cam/
This is the one I bought, plug and play.
https://hydrastarusa.com/product/hyd...-n-play-w-cam/
Wildman,
Hydrastar® MARINE Surge Brake Conversion System to Electric Over Hydraulic (EOH) Brake Actuator
Doesn't look like it. Maybe they got the "Just makes it easier" resolved. Don't know. Tech on the phone said I'd be OK.
Thanks. Brad.
Hydrastar® MARINE Surge Brake Conversion System to Electric Over Hydraulic (EOH) Brake Actuator
Doesn't look like it. Maybe they got the "Just makes it easier" resolved. Don't know. Tech on the phone said I'd be OK.
Thanks. Brad.
06-04-2024, 03:39 PM
#55
VIP Member
VIP MemberThread Starter
Well, it could be several things. I'm assuming that you have not installed EOH yet, correct?
1. Once you install you could find it works perfectly. "Supposedly" all OEM brake controllers manufactured after 2016 were/are EOH capable. I say "supposedly" because not all controllers after 2016 would work with EOH without a controller assist module (CAM) or electric brake magnets wired inline to get the controller to recognize the EOH actuator. No real explanation as to why, but it is known they didn't. No GM vehicles with the OEM controller prior to 2016 would work without the CAM/magnets. They were built for electric brakes only back then.
2. You should have a 30A fuse in the fuse box under the hood that provides steady 12v power to the trucks 7-pin connector at the rear of the truck. Test the 12v at the 7-pin before you start to make sure it's hot. If not, check the fuse. Not sure, but it could be #63 under your hood. Your fuse number might be different than my '19. Several years GM did not provide a fuse and used a dummy.
3. Very uncommon, but once in a while you could get a bad actuator. Hydrastar, as stated, has great customer service and they will make it right. Again, rare occurrence. If you are sure you have power to the 7-pin on the truck and your actuator does not work, it could be bad.
4. TRIPLE CHECK ALL YOUR GROUND WIRES. Make sure they are making good contact and are tight.
There is nothing wrong with any of the EOH actuators out there. There are many Hydrastar, Dexter and Titan (which is now owned by Dexter) controllers and everyone has different opinions of them. Like many on this thread, I'm a Hydrastar guy, but I would have no aversions to using Dexter or Titan. I just liked the look of the Hydrastar. I would also suggest the plug and play version for easier installation regardless of the brand.
Final thing. Check what the DIC tells you. Plug into the 7-pin with the motor off and then start it. If the DIC says "Trailer Connected" or similar, you should be good to go. If all is good wiring wise and it still doesn't work, I would go buy a couple of electric brake magnets and wire them into the blue and white wires of the harness after the actuator. If that works, you can leave them as is or then buy a proper CAM to install. It would be strictly for aesthetics.
Couple of pics of my set up. Trailer and wiring box has been powder coated silver now.
1. Once you install you could find it works perfectly. "Supposedly" all OEM brake controllers manufactured after 2016 were/are EOH capable. I say "supposedly" because not all controllers after 2016 would work with EOH without a controller assist module (CAM) or electric brake magnets wired inline to get the controller to recognize the EOH actuator. No real explanation as to why, but it is known they didn't. No GM vehicles with the OEM controller prior to 2016 would work without the CAM/magnets. They were built for electric brakes only back then.
2. You should have a 30A fuse in the fuse box under the hood that provides steady 12v power to the trucks 7-pin connector at the rear of the truck. Test the 12v at the 7-pin before you start to make sure it's hot. If not, check the fuse. Not sure, but it could be #63 under your hood. Your fuse number might be different than my '19. Several years GM did not provide a fuse and used a dummy.
3. Very uncommon, but once in a while you could get a bad actuator. Hydrastar, as stated, has great customer service and they will make it right. Again, rare occurrence. If you are sure you have power to the 7-pin on the truck and your actuator does not work, it could be bad.
4. TRIPLE CHECK ALL YOUR GROUND WIRES. Make sure they are making good contact and are tight.
There is nothing wrong with any of the EOH actuators out there. There are many Hydrastar, Dexter and Titan (which is now owned by Dexter) controllers and everyone has different opinions of them. Like many on this thread, I'm a Hydrastar guy, but I would have no aversions to using Dexter or Titan. I just liked the look of the Hydrastar. I would also suggest the plug and play version for easier installation regardless of the brand.
Final thing. Check what the DIC tells you. Plug into the 7-pin with the motor off and then start it. If the DIC says "Trailer Connected" or similar, you should be good to go. If all is good wiring wise and it still doesn't work, I would go buy a couple of electric brake magnets and wire them into the blue and white wires of the harness after the actuator. If that works, you can leave them as is or then buy a proper CAM to install. It would be strictly for aesthetics.
Couple of pics of my set up. Trailer and wiring box has been powder coated silver now.
So, is yours the "plug-n-play" kit? Is that the reason for the box?
Thanks. Brad.
06-04-2024, 03:40 PM
#56
VIP Member
VIP MemberThread Starter
Brad,
This is the one I bought, plug and play.
https://hydrastarusa.com/product/hyd...-n-play-w-cam/
This is the one I bought, plug and play.
https://hydrastarusa.com/product/hyd...-n-play-w-cam/
So, I guess your original trailer connecter connects to the socket with the kit, then the connecter from the kit plugs into the truck?
The PNP has some appeal in its simplicity, but the other one seems to result in cleaner installs. Just my observation.
Thanks. Brad.
Last edited by Brad Christy; 06-04-2024 at 04:10 PM.
06-04-2024, 04:38 PM
#57
Registered
Wildman,
So, I guess your original trailer connecter connects to the socket with the kit, then the connecter from the kit plugs into the truck?
The PNP has some appeal in its simplicity, but the other one seems to result in cleaner installs. Just my observation.
Thanks. Brad.
So, I guess your original trailer connecter connects to the socket with the kit, then the connecter from the kit plugs into the truck?
The PNP has some appeal in its simplicity, but the other one seems to result in cleaner installs. Just my observation.
Thanks. Brad.
06-04-2024, 04:43 PM
#58
VIP Member
VIP MemberThread Starter
Oh, they offer it. But it's $125 on its own, while it's only a $75 upcharge for the PNP kit over the DIY.
Like I said, I'm tempted to order the DIY kit and the CAM, and just send the CAM back if I don't need it. That way, I'm not dead in the water if I do end up needing it.
Thanks. Brad.
06-27-2024, 06:17 PM
#59
VIP Member
VIP MemberThread Starter
Guys,
Done deal. My buddy Dan (ICDEDPPL) sold me a brand new HydraStar actuator. After ordering the rest of the kit, it was a time to get to it…..
I decided to take the OSO advice and go the welded route. Glad I did.
Removed surge sliding coupler. Removed slide bushings. Ordered filler plates. Reassembled coupler with filler plates in place of slide bushings. Line drilled two pilot holes through coupler. Disassembled. Machined Ø7/8" holes in coupler on pilot locations in sliding coupler for cross pins. Made cross pins. Machined Ø1-1/8" cross pin holes in filler plates. Cut Ø1-1/4" holes in trailer at pilot hole locations with hole saw. This made filler space to fuse the coupler, pins, filler plates and trailer as a whole at both pin locations. Welded filler plates to coupler, with oversized holes aligned with holes in sliding coupler. Inserted “new” coupler into channel, inserted cross pins. Lowered coupler onto blocks so that it was bearing weight, and fill welded literally every orifice there was. Cleaned up welds and spatter with a flapdisk. Painted. I meant to take more pics along the way, but I always seem to get impatient and just plow through projects. Oops….
I had actually made a set of temporary pins, with tapped holes in the ends, and four step washers with cups that captured the pins, because we had a trip to Cumberland planned, and I ran into scheduling issues with the welder. I had to clamp the top and bottom filler plates in place for the trip, because they weren’t actually captured, and could potentially find their way out and go bouncing along behind the truck, under the boat. After getting back, I got together with the welder….
I had a couple links from the new breakaway chains, so we added a second breakaways switch capable guide.
And the finished project, short of reattaching breakaway chains. After the paint fully hardens.
While the coupler was out, I took it to a local auto paint shop, they scanned it and mixed up a custom color rattle can for me….
I had a couple of electrical issues, with the coupler going offline. Sunday morning, I discovered we didn’t have the 12v feed, at all, at the connector socket in the truck. I had to rig a wire, from the battery, fused, of course, zip-tied under the truck, so as to not get itself into trouble, with a disconnect at the bumper, to get us back home with brakes. The tech at HydroStar indicated it was probably a connectivity issue at the plug socket in the truck. Pretty sure it was. After replacing the fuse and tweaking the tangs in the socket to ensure good contact with the plug, we should be good to go.
Thanks. Brad.
Done deal. My buddy Dan (ICDEDPPL) sold me a brand new HydraStar actuator. After ordering the rest of the kit, it was a time to get to it…..
I decided to take the OSO advice and go the welded route. Glad I did.
Removed surge sliding coupler. Removed slide bushings. Ordered filler plates. Reassembled coupler with filler plates in place of slide bushings. Line drilled two pilot holes through coupler. Disassembled. Machined Ø7/8" holes in coupler on pilot locations in sliding coupler for cross pins. Made cross pins. Machined Ø1-1/8" cross pin holes in filler plates. Cut Ø1-1/4" holes in trailer at pilot hole locations with hole saw. This made filler space to fuse the coupler, pins, filler plates and trailer as a whole at both pin locations. Welded filler plates to coupler, with oversized holes aligned with holes in sliding coupler. Inserted “new” coupler into channel, inserted cross pins. Lowered coupler onto blocks so that it was bearing weight, and fill welded literally every orifice there was. Cleaned up welds and spatter with a flapdisk. Painted. I meant to take more pics along the way, but I always seem to get impatient and just plow through projects. Oops….
I had actually made a set of temporary pins, with tapped holes in the ends, and four step washers with cups that captured the pins, because we had a trip to Cumberland planned, and I ran into scheduling issues with the welder. I had to clamp the top and bottom filler plates in place for the trip, because they weren’t actually captured, and could potentially find their way out and go bouncing along behind the truck, under the boat. After getting back, I got together with the welder….
I had a couple links from the new breakaway chains, so we added a second breakaways switch capable guide.
And the finished project, short of reattaching breakaway chains. After the paint fully hardens.
While the coupler was out, I took it to a local auto paint shop, they scanned it and mixed up a custom color rattle can for me….
I had a couple of electrical issues, with the coupler going offline. Sunday morning, I discovered we didn’t have the 12v feed, at all, at the connector socket in the truck. I had to rig a wire, from the battery, fused, of course, zip-tied under the truck, so as to not get itself into trouble, with a disconnect at the bumper, to get us back home with brakes. The tech at HydroStar indicated it was probably a connectivity issue at the plug socket in the truck. Pretty sure it was. After replacing the fuse and tweaking the tangs in the socket to ensure good contact with the plug, we should be good to go.
Thanks. Brad.
Last edited by Brad Christy; 06-27-2024 at 06:25 PM.
06-27-2024, 07:32 PM
#60
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