sparkie124

1. Where can I find break parts for my trailer? Mainly pads...2. Do I need to do something when backing my boat and trailer up my drive? Can I convert to electric breaks or is that a bad idea for a water bound trailer?
I've only towed the boat home and to storage. Seemed fine on the 3 hr trip home but the 10 minute trip to store it was concerning. I want to do some maintenance and don't know a thing about the surge system brakes. I asume they can be adjusted...how?
Thanks
JRM

Redhook98

I would probably post this in the Trucks, Trailers and Towing section...... Probably get more responses.

Revd Up

Take the forward wheels off the trailer, where the brakes are. Take a hammer and tap off the bearing buddy, carefully. Then wipe off the grease and look for a flat spot on the spindle. Straighten out the retaining tab and remove nut. Then pull off brake drum, being carefull as the outer wheel bearing will come off with it. Put the bearing in a paper towel and don't get dirt in it. Now you can see the brake shoes etc. Inspect the brake drum, brake shoes, etc. Clean off the shoes with brake cleaner. Sand if they have glazed over. Put drum and bearing back on and adjust shoes outward using the brake adjuster located at the bottom of the shoes. Adjust it until it starts to rub , then back off a little. It is really pretty easy once you get into it. I go through mine once a year to check everything out and make sure all is well. Better to check regularly than break down on the road.

c_deezy

http://www.etrailer.com

http://www.trailerpart.com/

As for your other questions, it depends on if you have discs (assuming since you said pads) or drums. If you have discs and surge brakes, when in reverse you should have a functioning reverse solenoid. If you don't, it will be real hard to back the trailer up.

sparkie124

Thanks for the info. Sounds easy enough. I'm gonna check it out next weekend.

sparkie124

I got hung up workin more time. OT gets old after a good stent but i guess its a good thing. Got the boat out of storage and home fore inspection. Right off the bat I see the tail tail sign of leaking brake fluid(no paint on the trailer axle @ the the brass T). Got it up enough to get under it and found rotted brake lines. The main from the cylinder to the X (first axle) is good but the short one to the T (second axle) is blown out. All four lines that go out to the wheels are dry rotted and cracked. I think I can handle replacing the lines once I locate them but I havent a clue as to bleeding a surge system. I guess brakes disengaged, fill with fluid and hand vac pump the farthest away working to the closest to the cylider and refilling after each wheel. I know...search button. gotta go.

Expensive Date

If you are good at making things get an extra master cylinder cap, drill a hole in it. Get a brass push on fitting glue it in and then attatch a cheap pump sprayer filled with brake fluid. It works it really does,but before you go crazy check to make sure the whole trailer is not rotted. If its ok you can get new rotors and cailipers for about $140.00 to $250.00 each depending on what you want from Kodiack.

Expensive Date

sparkie124

Thanks Expensive Date. Thats a pretty good idea. I should have no problem doing that. Id rather push fluid than try to vac it any day.