ttrm007

I've search everywhere and haven't found a great solution to my fuel line feed design. Here is what I know so far:

• USCG does not approve stainless braided line (my original plan).
• Stainless line is what I know how to use from race cars. It works and doesn't leak but I've ready the reasons USCG doesn't approve. Don't want to really discuss this here.
• Most still run stainless braided on these high performance boats. Ugh. I want to and feel it is a safe solution.
• I want to be legal. I expect with my noise factor, I could get some grief in general so don't want to give any ammo.

My setup:
I have two Holley blue electric fuel pumps to feed 652HP 427cu small blocks with 850 Holleys. I plan to run the spin-on fuel/water separators that were there originally. When I got the boat it was all braided and routed like this:

tank->electric pump->tee to separators->mechanical pumps->carbs

I've read that the electric pump before the separators is to push the fuel through them as the pumps don't like to pull through separators. I've read mixed opinions on if you can just push through the separator. Many have said their factory setups came that way. If so, I would do this:

tank->electric pump1 ->separator 1->regulator 1->mechanical gauge->carb 1
->electric pump2 ->separator 2->regulator 2->mechanical gauge->carb 2

Or, should I do this?

tank->electric pump1->regulator 1 ->separator 1->mechanical gauge->carb 1
->electric pump2->regulator 2 ->separator 2->mechanical gauge->carb 2

If I can't push through separators, would I have to add another holley red pump before separators and put my pumps after separators?

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Next point of order. What kind of lines and fittings? Where do I get them? I would prefer to have USCG labeled but can I use AN type fittings? I'm reading about the push on, etc... but no posts are clear to me where to get the right stuff.

Thanks for any advice. May go post in general area but you guys seem to have a lot of knowledge. How have you done it?

Thanks,
Tom

CIG3

I use Earl's Pro lite 350 or Super Stock hose on all the performance boats I work on. Have had Coast Guard do inspections on a few with no issues. I like the Pro Lite 350 because it has no metal in it to arch if it contacts an electrical component. Pull both work with their push loc fittings. Flows nice too.

For you set up. Use #1. Always want the regulator and gauge at the end of the line.

ttrm007

Thanks CIG3. I was worried that unregulated pressure would be an issue with the separator but it sounds like we are ok there. So the Earl's isn't 'officially' marked USCG approved it sounds but you use pushlock which look good to me.

Is there a reason you use this hose vs. something marked USCG? Maybe there is something out there with the right tags I can use with Pushlock fittings?

Ok, I'm starting to see a possible reason. The USCG approved Hose I'm seeing is not sized for these fittings. If I need -8 or -10, the ID is different than the standard 1/2" ID hose with USCG markings. So, I would like to find -8 and -10 USCG marked hose which is
-8: .438 or 7/16"
-10 .563 or 9/16"

CIG3

I like to use the fittings as they flow better than the brass (JIC) stuff that you get from the autoparts store. The black braided outside give the look of stainless hose but no issues with arching from electrical shorts. If your work is clean and secured no coast guard or ODNR inspection will even second guess it. This hose is also ethanol safe. Like I said I 've purposely taken a 38 Top Gun and 41 Apache to the Coast Guard for inspection and never had any issues. I also took our race boat to them for the crew to look at for a race we were having so they understood our safety systems. They always said we were 300% ahead of half the stuff on the water.