Padraig

Interesting. Think it has enough weight to close reliably?

Padraig

90profx

I don't think there is much variance in the weight dept. be it rubber or Stainless the hang open is going to be the same distance. Wave action towards the transom (wave action #1) should easily close the flap door since it's only made of thin sheet stainless (maybe .032 thk) as long as there's minimal friction at the hinge point. Wave action #2 be it rubber or stainless should be the same result. So I'm think'n it's pretty much a wash either way...............................?

90profx

Ok, just bought a zinc plated version of the exact one in stainless, Ebay $12.00. Cheaper to experiment on than $80 in stainless. Progress to follow..............

90profx

Zinc Plated Flapper arrived and shown below on a scrap piece of 4" OD Stainless Exhaust Tube. Black line on counter weight is where I'll cut down the counter weight to reduce it's massive bulky look. OD of the flap itself measures 4 7/8" OD. Have to figure out something to keep the flap from banging metal to metal contact with the exhaust tube. To be continued.......

Boatally Insane

[QUOTE=90profx;4539410]. Have to figure out something to keep the flap from banging metal to metal contact with the exhaust tube. To be continued.......


But would they ?

There may be enough exhaust / water flow to hold them at least partially open whenever the engine is running....
Don't know how you swim platform is set up, but I have black flapper marks on the bottom of mine.. May have to limit how far they open...

90profx

[QUOTE=Boatally Insane;4539623]Very good question..........
My new tailpipes are angled downward more now than before when I only used an exhaust tip in the transom with hose connections. I don't think (in my case) there will be a problem of hitting the bottom of the platform. The metal to metal contact would probably be limited to when towing or sitting (wave action) w/engine off. I'm real anal about noise so I'll have to figure that out on the fly. I cut the flapper last night to eliminate the counter weight, but after bolting it back together I noticed the height of the bracket was stone ugly, way to tall. So it's back to the drawing board for a plan "B". I'm actually thinking of making a pair from scratch out of 304 Stainless. I can do that for far less than buying new flaps like this one and doing all the mod's to make it work. I'm giving that allot of thought.

Way to tall....................

90profx

Here's where the work would begin on a flap like this one except in Stainless @ $80 each...............



My concept of making one for way under $80 each and allot of hand polishing :

90profx

[QUOTE=Ryan00TJ;4537358]Yep Hardin flappers are thecway to go. They are very proud of them $$. I was lucky and bought a like new pair off a member here for a steal. They really look good.

Would you happen to know what the round flap plate thickness is ? I'm guessing .06-.09 maybe ????????

Ryan00TJ

[QUOTE=90profx;4539790]1/16" they are. Hardin uses a rubber ring that fits inside the clamp part of the flapper. This serves two purposes, no metal to metal touching of flapper to tip and no metal to metal as you clamp it onto your tip.

90profx

[QUOTE=Ryan00TJ;4539960]Thank you very much for the info. I did notice the red rubber band under the clamping ring in the pics posted of the HARDIN FLAPPERS. I plan on using/making that same concept out of the left over 4" ID Blue Silicone exhaust hose I bought when I did the rubber hose removal mod earlier, that should be perfect stuff to do the job. That hose has a .170 wall thickness which maybe a little on the big side but should work fine and will be hidden for the most part anyway.

I'll get two 304 SST discs cut out of some .06 thick sheet to a 4.375 or 4.50 dia.(yet TBD) and get some .06 or .12 x 1.0 flat stock for the clamp and some round stock for the hinge.

Thanks again Ryan, greatly appreciate it...........

Gary