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260 Fuse Panel Question

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Old 01-17-2016, 06:29 AM
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Default 260 Fuse Panel Question

Currently cleaning up most of the electricals, but I'm trying to figure out the power IN/OUT on the under seat fuse panel. I'm replacing the old glass tube fuse panel with new a new LED ATM FUSE Panel. Labels on old panel indicate output power to:

MERCATHODE
RADIO MEMORY
RADIO/IGNITION
ACCESSORY
SPARE


So my question is what's the purpose of the power split (radio memory is obvious)?
And what powers up what with key on and what's constant power.

It "appears" the the split power is "Constant On & Ign Key On" related (but not sure).

Thank you.

Last edited by 90profx; 01-17-2016 at 06:34 AM.
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Old 01-19-2016, 07:22 AM
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In general the ignition switch controls the standard Merc engine wire harness connections opposed to non-engine related but perhaps radio also in your case. The remainder should run through the battery switch or be unswitched/connected to battery power such as bilge switch (double check this as I found issues on my 320 and 390), Mercathode, high water level or gas fume alarms if equipped.
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Old 01-19-2016, 07:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Revelocity
In general the ignition switch controls the standard Merc engine wire harness connections opposed to non-engine related but perhaps radio also in your case. The remainder should run through the battery switch or be unswitched/connected to battery power such as bilge switch (double check this as I found issues on my 320 and 390), Mercathode, high water level or gas fume alarms if equipped.
Thanks for the info, I'll revisit this next week and lay out a sketch of the split based on my understanding of your explaination, I'm not familiar with the Mercathode system (but learning), this is a system that should be powered 100% of the time ????
Thanks again.
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Old 01-19-2016, 07:45 AM
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All you mentioned should be HOT from the battery disconnect switch, then all others hot to dash panel -breakers hot to switches for control. bilge should have a away/off/on switch.. Just check your draw before leaving your boat for too long, I can disconnect my battery switch and still have power to bilge. Its different setup for fresh and salt with Mercathode, Fresh you can disconnect if you have fresh water zinc's in place. Fresh and Salt zinc's are different
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Old 01-19-2016, 01:29 PM
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Originally Posted by 90profx
Thanks for the info, I'll revisit this next week and lay out a sketch of the split based on my understanding of your explaination, I'm not familiar with the Mercathode system (but learning), this is a system that should be powered 100% of the time ????
Thanks again.
If you are keeping your boat in a salt water slip, you want the mercathode powered all the time to mitigate drive corrosion (and bilge switch when ever in the water). It's good to be able to shut off all else (lights/radios etc) with a main switch so as not to discharge battery.
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Old 01-21-2016, 06:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Revelocity
If you are keeping your boat in a salt water slip, you want the mercathode powered all the time to mitigate drive corrosion (and bilge switch when ever in the water). It's good to be able to shut off all else (lights/radios etc) with a main switch so as not to discharge battery.
Usage is fresh water only and slip time would be maybe over a weekend now and then. So after some though as to what to do, I've opt'd to rewire controlling things as follows through a Blue Sea 5511e battery switch:

Starter Battery (1x): Mercathoid, Ignition/Merc Harness

House Batteries (2x): Everything else, Hatch Lift, Radio, Amps's, Blower, Lighting etc, etc.

I have 2 Bilge Pumps in the boat, 1 is switchable at the helm and the other is direct (fused) wired to the house batteries via an automatic electronic water sensor (precautionary). Opinions welcome.......thanks


Last edited by 90profx; 01-23-2016 at 03:51 AM. Reason: added pic
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