Test ran the new Raylar goodies
#31
Registered
Looks good and sounds like it’s running good. I like those colors!
#32
Registered
Thread Starter
My Father always said "boating is a sickness". Well, it's true. I can't leave well enough alone. Engine is prepped and ready to pull.
Winter plans.......
Remove Merc oil setup. Add a tstat sandwich adapter and upgrade oil cooler. Melling 10778 oil pump. 30psi Bypass valves.
Remove Merc air drain valves.
Install 02 bungs in risers to monitor/tune AF ratio. Install adjustable fuel pressure regulator.
Install Raylar 203 cam and upgraded springs. The 203 is Raylar's 731 equivalent.
I would really like to go ahead and replace the stock heads with Raylar's 315 CNC heads. Alot of coin at the moment. Now is the time though.......
I'll keep updating.....
Winter plans.......
Remove Merc oil setup. Add a tstat sandwich adapter and upgrade oil cooler. Melling 10778 oil pump. 30psi Bypass valves.
Remove Merc air drain valves.
Install 02 bungs in risers to monitor/tune AF ratio. Install adjustable fuel pressure regulator.
Install Raylar 203 cam and upgraded springs. The 203 is Raylar's 731 equivalent.
I would really like to go ahead and replace the stock heads with Raylar's 315 CNC heads. Alot of coin at the moment. Now is the time though.......
I'll keep updating.....
#33
Registered
WOW great project. Keep the pics coming. We will need them this winter. What up do you think you will end up with?
You need to bring that bad boy to the Battleship Run at Seneca Lake this coming year. Two VR 1s would be cool and I could check that bad boy out.
Padraig
You need to bring that bad boy to the Battleship Run at Seneca Lake this coming year. Two VR 1s would be cool and I could check that bad boy out.
Padraig
#34
Banned
I see the rear engine mounts out --- placed to the rear side
Possible the pic not clear but not sure so I will mention --- your starboard trim tab oil reservoir looks like it has milk in it (water mix) ??. The other trim tab oil reservoir looks to be good ( clear oil )
Possible the pic not clear but not sure so I will mention --- your starboard trim tab oil reservoir looks like it has milk in it (water mix) ??. The other trim tab oil reservoir looks to be good ( clear oil )
#35
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Thread Starter
BUP, Good eye!! It is slightly milky. Just replaced a stainless braid hose on my Dana hp1000 tabs that had a tiny pinhole. Flushing the reservoir to get rid of the milky oil.
#36
Banned
Padraig, Winter is right! Just shook my head watching it snow yesterday. With the 203 cam only, 475hp and high 70s. Heads/203 540hp + and low 80s. I've got the Battleship run on my calendar. Would really enjoy that.
BUP, Good eye!! It is slightly milky. Just replaced a stainless braid hose on my Dana hp1000 tabs that had a tiny pinhole. Flushing the reservoir to get rid of the milky oil.
BUP, Good eye!! It is slightly milky. Just replaced a stainless braid hose on my Dana hp1000 tabs that had a tiny pinhole. Flushing the reservoir to get rid of the milky oil.
if you pull the reservoir off there is possible 2 hanging screens for the valve body. Those screens can become caked as well depending on the milk. I have seen it caked all around the screens when the reservoirs become milky. Again it depends on things like how long it was like that and how thick the milk was. This also goes the same for the outdrive trim reservoir when that reservoir gets milky. Anyways a short jist of the valve body screens for the apps that have them.
#37
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Any plans for new exhaust?
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[email protected]
http://www.facebook.com/pages/Diamon...07878772615803
302-521-0123
The Best Parts & Service At The Best Price
#38
Registered
Thread Starter
Not at this time or power level. The manifolds are aluminum 496 models. 66lbs lighter than the cast iron models. Turbulators removed. My risers have been extended 12.5" to mix water/exhaust at the transom as well.
The CMI sport tubes or Dana Flo torque setups would be an upgrade. I don't think the performance vs cost ratio is there at my power level.
The CMI sport tubes or Dana Flo torque setups would be an upgrade. I don't think the performance vs cost ratio is there at my power level.
#39
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Thread Starter
Trained eyes - haha
if you pull the reservoir off there is possible 2 hanging screens for the valve body. Those screens can become caked as well depending on the milk. I have seen it caked all around the screens when the reservoirs become milky. Again it depends on things like how long it was like that and how thick the milk was. This also goes the same for the outdrive trim reservoir when that reservoir gets milky. Anyways a short jist of the valve body screens for the apps that have them.
if you pull the reservoir off there is possible 2 hanging screens for the valve body. Those screens can become caked as well depending on the milk. I have seen it caked all around the screens when the reservoirs become milky. Again it depends on things like how long it was like that and how thick the milk was. This also goes the same for the outdrive trim reservoir when that reservoir gets milky. Anyways a short jist of the valve body screens for the apps that have them.
#40
Gold Member
Gold Member
Dude just do the pistons. Keep the stock crank, rods and the piston kit will be a breeze.
The aluminum heads will bump your compression ratio from roughly 9 to almost 10. If you barf a piston with those new heads it will make you sick. Plus, then you can run the 206 cam next winter easy....
The aluminum heads will bump your compression ratio from roughly 9 to almost 10. If you barf a piston with those new heads it will make you sick. Plus, then you can run the 206 cam next winter easy....
Last edited by Keith Atlanta; 11-17-2018 at 08:50 AM.